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Egypt

Relaxing in the Red Sea.

June 5, 2007by veryitchyfeet.comNo Comments

There are several ways to get from Luxor to Dahab on the Sinai Peninsula, and there are also several prices, depending on whether you fly, take part of the ride on a ferry, or simply take a bus. The latter was the cheapest, as well as the longest option. Needless to say, it was the option we took! When one travels for a year, cost is always a factor and consideration. Besides, we would be undertaking the 15 or 16 or 17 or…….hour trip with our new friends, Steph and Seb. Bus travel times are always only an estimate in Egypt, as it depends on how many times the bus stops, and for how long. This does not include the several police checkpoints, which constitute the bus coming to a screeching halt, lights on and passports checked, apparently some of which can take place under the influence of “tiredness”. Alex tells me that he showed my passport to a policeman on one of the stops, whilst I slept through, oblivious! What is the saying? Ignorance is bliss!

We finally arrived in Dahab, some 16, 17 or was it 18 hours later! The landscape in this neck of the woods is quite dramatic, with mountains of sand cascading into a turquoise sea. My mind was trying to wrap itself around the desert and sea combination. An odd combination for me, but marvellous. My mind boggled as it kept trying to tell me that desert and sea were mutually exclusive.
No sooner had we jumped off the bus than we were bombarded with several touts trying to “sell” us a room for the night. Sometimes this too can be overwhelming, and we ended up going with a guy called Momo, to the Jasmine Hotel. The contact had been given to us in Luxor. Although we also checked out several other places, we ended up back at the Jasmine. It was clean, comfortable, had a balcony, and it was right on the waterfront, with exquisite views of the Red Sea.
Dahab is, well, basically one of Egypt’s top coastal destinations. It is not supposed to be as touristy or resorty as some of the other places, but we felt that it was well on its way. Whilst it is a great place to relax, dive and snorkel, we found the waterfront area to be one continuous line of touristy (and often over-priced!) restaurants and shops. Having said that, sitting on the cushions on the floor of any given restaurant, whilst sipping on a (very average!) coffee is really not a bad way to pass the time whilst shooting the breeze! We did manage to find some great little places to eat in the back streets though, and as usual, the food was pretty good and the price tag reasonable. Needless to say, none of us were interested in falafel! The word sent a shiver down our spines!

 

There is a Bedouin village close to Dahab, which we passed one day, on our way to go snorkeling. It was explained to us that although they “live ” in the sandstone huts that we could see, many Bedouin still pitch up their tents inside! Odd? I do not think so. The Bedouin are basically desert dwellers and nomads, and tents are really their life.

 

We went snorkelling a couple of times and were flabbergasted. Absolutely stunning! The beaches of Dahab are not sandy, but rather pebbly. You only have to walk or swim out 20 metres or so, to find that the pebbles become coral and then that coral wall dramatically drops away, and invites you to see not only spectacular marine life but an array of colourful water formations as well. It was certainly excellent competition for Australia’s Great Barrier Reef! On another day, we visited a site called the Blue Hole , where we also did some snorkelling. More spectacular underwater eye candy!

How could we come to Dahab, and not go diving? We couldn’t! We went with an extremely professional company called Big Blue Dahab (http://www.bigbluedahab.com/), owned by the hands-on and competent Mohamed, as well as managed by another Mohamed. After chatting with a few people from different places, we realised that these guys had the professional and safe edge that we were looking for. Our first dive was in a place called Eel Garden. Olivier from France took us out and he was excellent. Apart from seeing the obvious (eels) we also saw yet more interesting coral and marine life. I have said this before, but it is absolutely another world down there! The colours are different, the feeling is different and the vibe is different. Later that day, Tim (an Australian) took us out to another dive spot called The Island. Wow! I felt like I was in an underwater maze – we began by descending through a hole in the coral, and then continued to slither and slide over coral formations that I had never seen before……..one of my favourites was a gargantuan brain coral with some sea anemone tucked into the top…..and its guardians, two “Nemo ” fish. The sight was wondrous to behold!

 

The other “must do” on the Sinai Peninsula is, of course, climbing Mt Sinai. At 2285 metres, Mt Sinai, or Gebel Musa as it is known to the locals, is the place where God is purported to have delivered his Ten Commandments to Moses at its summit. It is thus revered by Christians, Muslims and Jews alike. Along with Steph and Seb, we did a night walk. We took a mini-van from Dahab at 11.00pm at night, and arrived near Mt Sinai, at around 12.30am, then a group of us (there were various groups, some even taking camels) began the trek up to the summit. It is rather an easy walk, but I must admit that I struggled. I think that 9 months on the go is finally taking its toll! The reality is that I need a rest! But, I soldiered on! Thanks for helping me with my backpack Alex! We reached the top at around 4.00am….along with a multitude of others, where we hired a blanket and mattress and snuggled down for a few hours, before waking up to the sunset. Well, Steph and Alex did, whilst Seb and I slept on….a little. But we still saw the colours , right Seb? We got the picture!

No sooner had the sun risen, than there was a mass exodus of people descending the slope, towards the Monastery of St Katherine. The walk down was actually harder than the walk up, which consists of the 3750 “Steps of Repentance”. These steps are made of roughly hewn rock, and are said to have been laid down by a monk as a form of penance. If I was exhausted during the walk, I was shattered after it! We reached the monastery just after 8.00am, but had to wait until 9.00am for it to open. We sussed out the surrounding and inviting rock scenery, picked a flattish space, and collapsed for an hour or so.

By the time the monastery opened, we felt like the living dead, like walking zombies! The aspect which makes this Christian monastery so spectacular is that it’s tucked into a barren valley at the foot of Mt Sinai, with absolutely nothing else around it. Walking down the mountain, as it comes into view, it almost looks like an apparition, as its sandstone colours and hues blend into the surrounding countryside. It too has been a place of pilgrimage since the 4th century AD. ” It traces its founding to about 330 AD, when the Roman Empress Helena had a small chapel and a fortified refuge for local hermits built beside what was believed to be the burning bush from which God spoke to Moses” (Lonely Planet guide on Egypt). It was very interesting, but I think I was too tired to properly appreciate it. We drove back to Dahab at around 10.30am, and upon our arrival, we showered and went to sleep, waking up several hours (read 7.00pm!) later. Holidays should be for relaxing……right?!

 

Who should we bump into in Dahab, but Mary, Gerald and Torin! Well, OK, Gerald had e-mailed me, so I knew that they were around! Remind me…..WHAT would we do without e-mail, and HOW did we cope before its advent? On our last night, we all went out to dinner, including Stephanie and Sebastien. This group of people are, without a doubt, some of the nicest we have met on our travels!

The Egyptian chapter was coming to a close, but where to next? Originally, we were supposed to go to Turkey, via the Middle East, perhaps Israel, perhaps Jordan. Apart from Cuba, this was the only part that was not included on our around-the-world ticket. Without getting into detail, we must fly from Rome to Barcelona on the 30th June, which does not give us much time. So, after several hours of internet research, we decided that the most feasible option, both cost and time wise would be to fly to Austria.

Once the decision had been made, I was on the phone to my very special and dear friend Silvia in Vienna, asking her how she felt about having visitors that very weekend! Keep in mind that it was Wednesday night when I called. Once I got the go ahead, we booked the ticket, through Egypt Air, on-line, and we would be flying out on Friday.

A bit on my friend Silvia. Silvia is from Austria and was my very first international friend. She became my pen-pal, whilst I was at high school, at age 13, and we have written, phoned, e-mailed, and stayed in contact ever since. More on this later!

At midnight we caught a mini-bus back to Cairo. In the early hours of the morning, on the outskirts of Cairo, we found ourselves hugging Seb and Steph saying goodbye. They would continue on to the city centre and we had to catch a taxi to the airport. We all had tears in our eyes a s we waved goodbye! We will really miss you both Stephanie and Sebastien!

It was just after 7.00am when we arrived at the airport, and we went directly to pick up our e-ticket! “Your ticket has not been paid for and your reservation has been cancelled”, we were told by the guy behind the customer service desk at Egypt Air. “Whaddayatalkinabout”, is the first thing that came to mind, and the second is why is customer service sometimes called customer service when there is no customer service! The guy helping us was so apathetic – as we freaked, he yawned and told us, whilst biting his nails, that we would need to come back in an hour and speak to the appropriate personnel. I urged him to give me a hint as to what he thought the outcome might be, but he was seriously in “Talk to the hand” mode. I heard myself thinking out loud, breathe in, breath out! He did tell us that we were still in the system, however, which was had to be a good sign.

Some two actually great coffees later, we went back, and luckily were able to fix the problem. For some reason, payment had not gone through and our reservation cancelled, but as we were still in the system, once we paid, we would be fine and dandy. The forces that be obviously guiding and watching us, as in a few minutes we were ready to rock and roll again. As we went through the check out counter, we met an Egyptian woman, who was travelling. She was stunned that we would have even attempted to book a ticket online through Egypt Air. ” This is Egypt. These things just do not work here! “, she proceeded to tell us. Thanks, I thought, we had kind of figured that out!

 

Before we knew it, we were on the plane, flying to Vienna!

“When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable” – Clifton Fadiman (1904 – 1999).

Dedication: To all the wonderful people we have met on our travels. Some of you have had a huge impact on our lives. Meeting people like Gerald, Mary and Torin, and Stephanie and Sebastien has enriched our lives. We have learnt, laughed, experienced and shared, and we feel that we are better human beings for it. Thanks to you, and to the many others that are forming us into the people we are, and will continue to become!

Ombi

(Photos: 1.- Highway through Sinai Peninsula, on the way to Dahab. 2.- Four-wheel driving, on the way back from snorkelling in the Blue Hole, near Dahab, close to the shore of the Red Sea. The mountains you see on the other side are actually in Saudi Arabia. 3.- Bedouin people & their camels, near the Blue Hole. 4.- Red Sea, as seen from the Blue Hole. 5.- View from our hotel room, Dahab. 6.- Ombi & Alex underwater…..this was actually taken by our dive instructor, Laura, when we did our Open Water Diving Course in Honduras, a few months back. 7.- Sunrise on top of Mount Sinai (lucky Alex takes good photos, as I was sleeping). 8.- St Katherine’s Monastery. 9.- Ombi & Alex on the top of Mount Sinai. 10.-Stephanie, Sebastien, Johnny Depp (oops, Alex!!!) and Ombi relaxing in a Dahab resturant. 11.- Steph, Seb, Alex ,Ombi, Mary, Gerald and Torin, eating out in a restaurant, on our last night in Egypt, Dahab.

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Egypt

Heat, hassle and hieroglyphics!

June 5, 2007by veryitchyfeet.comNo Comments

The trip to Aswan, at the southern end of the Nile, would be a long one! Some 28 hours, to be exact! We had to get up early, and catch the bus back to Marsa Matruh, and from there change, and catch another bus to Cairo. Small problem…….possibly an hour into the 5 hour journey back to Cairo, the air-conditioner broke down! As Kath and Kim would say……….NICE! It so was not! We were hot and sticky, and I was having a good ol‘ whinge! I kept reminding myself of all the people I had seen on this trip who were so much worse off than me, and it helped me to stay somewhat focused. By the time we arrived in Cairo, I was truly hot and bothered. Having been let of in the wrong spot, we then had to make our way to the train station. Step 3 would be catching the overnighter to Luxor. It would not be leaving until 10.00pm, so we had plenty of time to arrange things, or so we thought.

Aswan or Luxor? Luxor or Aswan? We decided on Luxor. No sooner had we done this, than we met a guy who insisted that we go to Aswan. Yes, Luxor was amazing he said, but Aswan was less touristy and equally as spectacular. Small problem. We had already bought the ticket! Without going into specific details, we were able to change it, but it took a lot of time and hassle. The guy had said that it was too late, that the ticket had already been bought and blah, blah, blah! I had one of the many tourist police help me out, but for a while it seemed that despite my determination, the operation was doomed to fail! Finally, the policeman got me to go into the ticket office, and in what I presume was Arabic small talk, he also got the man behind the desk to change our tickets! What I did next went against the grain of all that I usually stand for! I slipped the policeman a 10 pound Egyptian (about USD $1.40) note. He did not expect it and was truly grateful. Should I have done it or not? This was my dilemma: These people get paid appallingly, and in this case, no money was expected whatsoever. The policeman had spent almost an hour with me, which by the way, he was not obliged to do. I gave him the money, blessed it, and hoped that he would be able to give his family the little bit extra that I am able to afford every day!

The train left at 10.00 pm and arrived the next day at around lunchtime. We managed to sleep somewhat. We shared a compartment with a couple of supremely nice guys, one of whom spoke excellent English. Although thirsty, I drank little, as that would force me to use the toilets (yuk!!) at the end of the carriages. This area was also consistently used by smokers, and was thus engulfed in a constant lung wrenching smoke screen (double yuk!!). Speaking of which, I am amazed by how much they smoke here in Egypt, especially the men. I make no lie about how anal Alex and I both are around cigarette smoke, but avoiding it here has been virtually impossible.

What we did over the next several days, basically consisted of temples, temples and more temples. Oh….and ancient historical sights! Having said that they were impressive and spectacular, to say the vey least! In this case the saying that you need to see them for yourself to appreciate the enormity and majesty, is truer than ever! We actually saw so many, that it would be impossible to describe them all in detail, so I will aim for the highlights. There were also our three nights and two days on a felucca, cruising down the Nile, but more on that later.

The El Salam Hotel (elsalamhotelaswan@yahoo.com) in Aswan proved to be our little piece of paradise. The place was clean, and air-conditioned (and I thought that I did not like nor need air-con……….enter Egypt!)) , and the owners kind, helpful and friendly. It was seriously hot here, and we relied on lots of water and freshly squeezed sugar cane juice, to keep us hydrated as well as energised.

Although we stayed on the east bank of the Nile, it was only a short ferry ride across to the west bank. We did not make it across , but the area is home to many of the areas Nubians, who mostly live in southern Egypt and northern Sudan. They are easily recognisable by their dark skin, yet Arabic features. We did however make it to Elaphantine Island, a fascinating little Nubian island nestled between the east and west banks. Very easy to walk around, its major attractions are its impressive museum and the Ruins of Abu (the oldest structures which date back to 3000 BC), as well as its two Nubian villages, Siou and Koti. Here it is like time has lay dormant, where the houses are made of mud, the floors of dirt, and where the streets are simply dusty trails. There are no cars on the tiny island. And the Nubians go about their business as I assume they did millennia before we found them.

No trip to Aswan would be complete without an outing to Abu Simbel, which lies at the southern end of the Nile, only 40 kilometres away from the Sudanese border. The easiest way to get there is by taking a tour via mini van, as apart from the colossal temples for which it is justly famous, there is not much else to see or do. Most excursions along the Nile include police convoys, which are really in order to protect the tourists, as there have been several terrorist attacks in several places along the Nile in the past. The police convoys consists of tour buses and mini vans meeting at various times, and all going off together, obviously following the police.

Nothing could prepare us for the Great Temple of Ramses 2 and the Temple of Hathor. These temples were carved out of the mountain on the west bank of the Nile between 1274 and 1244 BC. The former temple’s imposing statues are majestic. As you come around a corner, there they are, four bigger than life statues of Ramses 2. I would imagine that the view from the Nile, especially in bygone years would have been spectacular. What did the ancients exclaim, as they sailed past? The temple of Hathor, is dedicated to Queen Nefertari and is really just a smaller version of Ramses’ own temple. Inside both temples are a series of rooms and chambers, many with exquisite sculptures and drawings, and hieroglyphics on the walls. In some areas the paint work is still intact. On the way back, we stopped at a few other sights including the High Dam and the Unfinished obelisk , which is the largest known ancient obelisk in the world. Our stop at the Isis Temple Complex on the island of Philae involved getting a ferry to the tiny island, whose entire space is dedicated to the temple, which once housed the cult of Isis and her subsequent worship. The space was serene and tranquil, and it was perhaps due to the very fact that it was not overrun with tourists that made it so striking.

It was from Aswan that we organised our felucca trip down the Nile. This is almost a rite of passage amongst the backpacker set. Feluccas are the small sailboats you can see going up and down the Nile. There are no toilets or showers, and multi- day trips consist of lazing on the deck, and watching the world go by. Toilet stop? Pull up onto shore and duck behind a bush or tree? Showers? Why do you think that baby wipes were invented? It was on this trip that we met Stephanie and Sebastien, a great Swiss brother and sister whom we would then spend the next week travelling with. We were so lucky, as there were only the four of us, as well as the captain, Ruby, and cook/helper, Rambo (Ramadan). Needles to say, we had a totally stress free, complacent and relaxing time. It was excellent for Alex and I as we were almost forced to take a much needed break.

After leaving the felucca on day three, a bus had been organised to pick us up. We stopped to see both the Temple of Kom Ombo as well as Edfu, and then it was another hour and a half on to Luxor. We had seen so much that we truly wondered if we could take in any more!

As far as being hassled went, it happened all over Aswan, especially in the market paces, and continued on in Luxor! It drove me to distraction, and I almost lost it on several occasions. On other occasions, well…….I did lose it! Like Aswan, there is so much to see and do in Luxor, but by this stage, I was wanting to see it and get out, as I was finding it difficult to control myself and my tongue. Stephanie and Sebastien were great to have around, as we could laugh and cry together over the things that annoyed and bothered us. There was much more laughing than crying though. Seb, I do not think we will EVER forget the Australians that took the camel ride at the Pyramids of Giza for 1500 Egyptian pounds!!! (Sorry guys, in -house joke!)

In Luxor, we visited the famed Valley of the Kings. Set in amongst its scorching cliffs, are a series of valleys containing a multitude of ancient burial sites; the majestic domain of the pharaohs who once lay there in great sarcophagi, awaiting immortality! Some 62 tombs have been excavated, but not all belonged to the pharaohs. Also, most are actually not open to the public. The famous tomb of Tutankhamen was actually the most recent discovery, by Howard Carter in 1922. Alex and I had to wait a while to enter it, as a British crew were filming for the Discovery Channel. Unlike, the other tombs, which are chambers with several sculptures and countless depictions , King Tut’s tomb has been cleared of the breathtaking riches that it once contained. Having said that, the fact that he still lies lies in there in his gilded wooden coffin, gives the place a special vibe and atmosphere.

We also visited the Valley of the Queens, in which there are some 75 tombs. Only 3 were open, and to be truthful, they pale in comparison to the alley of the Kings. The temple of Hatshepsut, was also astonishing. It is partly rock-cut and partially freestanding. As it rises out of the desert, it seems to merge with the adjacent limestone cliffs. Again, and again, I kept asking myself the same question that has run through my head a million times in this country…..HOW did they do it?

Karnak Temple was the last temple we saw in Luxor, and I must say, it was good timing! We had all reached temple saturation point, and were all finding it difficult to concentrate! It really was spectacular, but we were all a little too over-it to properly appreciate it! So, along with Steph and Seb, we decided that it was time to go to Dahab, on the Sinai Peninsula.

Up until now, I have mostly been able to keep illnesses and the revenge of the gods at bay. I have not been traumatised by Bali Belly, Montezuma’s Revenge, nor with Guatemalan gut. I am not sure whose revenge it was, but I copped it in Luxor! My guess is that the culprit was falafel that had been fried in used and reused cooking oil! The result was several trips to the bathroom over several days. It was my turn first, and then it went through the others….one at a time! But, we all lived to tell the tale!

Next: The Sinai Peninsula – Diving & snorkelling in the Red Sea and climbing Mt Sinai.

“Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter.” – Martin Luther King Jr.

Ombi

(Photos: 1.- Great Sea of Sand, Siwa Oasis. 2.- A felluca sailboat, near Aswan. 3.- Landscape near Aswan, with the mausoleum of Aga Khan in the background 4.-Nubian house facade,Elephantine Island 5&6.- Abu Simbel. 7.- Philae Temple, main entry. 8.- On the felucca, L to R: Alex, Ombi, Rambo, Stephanie, Ruby and Sebastien…..cruising the Nile. 9.- Philae Temple, Aswan. 10.- Light! Taken in one of the chambers of the Ramses 2 Temple in Abu Simbel. 11.- Fresco, Philae temple.

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Egypt

A mirage……..no, an oasis!

June 5, 2007by veryitchyfeet.comNo Comments

Cairo was full on, and we felt that we needed a little tranquility! We scanned our guide book and decided that Siwa Oasis (in the Western Desert) heading out north-west, near the Libyan border, sounded both exotic, and distant enough to provide us with some rest, relaxation and fun! Besides, we wanted to see a mirage! Heading out towards Alexandria by train, we then caught a bus on to Marsa Matruh, where we would spend the night. I must say that neither the buses nor trains here are particularly clean, and on several occasions, a plastic bag slipped over the top of the seat became my headrest, and several sheets of a (discarded!) glossy magazine became my cushion (the one I sat on!). That worked! We only spent a night in Marsa Matruh, before getting up early the next morning to catch another bus on to Siwa Oasis. Not much to report in Matruh……except that the food we ate was nice, and the hotel we stayed in was awful!

We arrived in Siwa by about 11.00am, and it was scorching! If you think it’s hot in the city, try mid-desert! I felt like I was in a dream. Everything was a beigy-sand colour, from the roads (which actually were sand!) to the buildings. The small township is nestled in amongst sand dunes, and has a series of eroded sandstone hills as a backdrop. It truly does appear as the proverbial mirage. We found a lovely little place to stay, and then we were off……………or, so we thought!

We have pushed ourselves through a multitude of barriers over the last nine months, but constant and searing heat (and remember, long pants!) is altogether another story. Long lunches are normally not our thing when we travel, but in that scathing heat, the option was surprisingly tantalising. East-West Restaurant, by the way, had great food at reasonable prices. Highly recommended if you end up in Siwa. It was here that we met Gerald, a Canadian guy. We spent several hours chatting, and relaxing (as we hoped we would). As it works out, Gerald is travelling around the world for a year, with his wife, Mary and 14 year old Torin. Aye, aye and cheers to them! We would later meet both Mary and Torin, and I want to say what a truly wonderful family they are. Torin, you are one of the luckiest 14 year olds that we know!

Apart from relaxing, we were able to fit in some other interesting activities…..like eating fresh dates and olives, for which the area is renowned. Strolling around the palm gardens is also very soothing. And it really is like a postcard…desert, desert, desert, and then plonk, a group of palm trees….which of course, are only there due to the existing water supply. The remains of the 13th century mud-brick Fortress of Shali, dominates the centre of town. It was fun to walk around and explore, as well as providing us with a brilliant sunset. It was on the highest peak that we met Adnan, who was here on business from Cairo. What a truly lovely and genuine person. Along with him we met some of his new found Siwan friends, who were also gentlemen. Sitting up on top of the world, and chatting…..living and learning. Could there be anything more to life!

I would like to include a poem (exactly as it was written), which Adnan sent via e-mail, and which I received in Austria several weeks after our meeting:

“Ombi is amazed”

Why,why is Ombi amazed?
Is it because the faces she traced?
Or perhapse the places she faced,
So let her eyes gazed and gazed.
Ombi is nice,delicate and sweet
With siplicity,she tries to treat,
Look at her,your heart will beat,
You’ll lose your way or the street.
Alex to Ombi is a soul mate,
He is her love and only fate,
Look at them,what you state?
Hand in handand never be late.
Did you see Ombi contemplating?
For something,she was waiting
To know the meaning without hating,
In Siwa we met,fate not dating.

(A lyrical poem that can be sung one day in school. Dedicated for a dear friend met by destiny. By Adnan Kotate.)

Even the locals differ to those in the rest of Egypt, not just physically, but linguistically. The inhabitants of Siwa are predominantly Berber speaking , although many also speak Arabic, which they have mainly learnt due to tourism. The married women are known for their particular dress, which constitutes being totally covered , from head to toe, in black. This includes their feet, hands, and eyes. A black gauze covers their eyes, so that not a thing can be seen. On top of this sea of black, is often a beautifully embroidered blue coloured cloth, particular to this area. Before marriage, the women bare all but their faces, and some of them are striking. Perhaps due to earlier invasions, such as those by France, we saw the likes of women with coffee coloured skin and striking blue or green eyes.

Siwa has no shortage of natural hot and cold springs. After all, this how an oasis comes into being. We walked to Cleopatra’s bath, which we decided not swim in. As a local told us, the name was chosen as they knew it would be a crowd puller! Bingo! Close to this spring, we also visited The Temple of the Oracle. Similar to the Shali Fortress, it is a labyrinth -like structure that sits at the edge of Aghurmi township (only 4 kilometres from Siwa), and upon reaching the top, the views of the sand dunes, palm trees and surrounding desert are brilliant. The structure was built in the 6th century BC, and it is said that it was in this place that Alexander the Great consulted the oracle (thus the name of the temple). It is one of the most revered oracles in the ancient Mediterranean.

The highlight of Siwa, however, was the afternoon “Sand Safari” we undertook with Abdu, of Abdu Safary(he can be contacted on azmy_safary@yahoo.com and his English is great). This consisted of four wheel driving over some impressive sand dunes and then relaxing in some hot as well as cold springs. Abdu’s sand burnouts were phenomenal, and I heard myself scream a few times as we flew down some with near 90 degree drops! You rock Abdu! Again, I felt like I was the moving object in a postcard…there we are flying over the sand dunes, when, all of a sudden, we drop over a really tall one, to be confronted with palm trees, and a bubbling hot spring! No, it’s not a mirage, it’s an oasis! We plonked ourselves in paradise, and soaked in the sulphurous water bubbles! After a little while, we dried up, and jumped back into the jeep. And just when we felt that it couldn’t get any better, as we topped another magnificent crest on the edge of the Great Sand Sea, there was Bir Wahed. Bir Wahed is a cold freshwater lake, which like its warmer sister, the hot spring, seems to jump up out of nowhere! As we drove towards it, I rubbed my eyes like the children in the Tales of Narnia……….could I be seeing what I was seeing? Sand, sand , sand and more sand, and then………… all of a sudden palm trees and a huge pool of water! We had found heaven.

Like all good things, they come to an end, and in a quest to see some more of Egypt’s world renowned sights we decided that Luxor and Aswan would be next. The trip to get there is a story unto itself!

‘There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged, to find the ways in which you yourself have altered’. – In the words of Nelson Mandela, in his autobiography, A Long Walk to Freedom.

Ombi

Photos: 1.-The ancient town of Shali, Siwa. 2.- One of the lakes around Siwa. 3.- A typical mud brick Siwan house. 4.- Ombi, “The poet” (Adnan) & other Siwan friends, on top of Shali. 5,- Ombi talking with the locals………for a change! 6.- The view as seen from The Oracle. 7.- Abdu & Ombi on the top of the Great Sea of Sand. 8.- Moi! 9.- Meditating……Abdu at the foot of the cold lake, Bir Wahed, Siwan desert.

Travel VIF
Egypt

An assault on the senses – Welcome to Egypt!

May 31, 2007by veryitchyfeet.comNo Comments
I have travelled far and wide, but nothing…….no amount of reading nor research, could have prepared me for Egypt! It has been an assault on the senses in a variety of mind-blowing ways! Egypt requires you to use all of your senses… at once, which often proved to be a difficult, if not at the very least, a supremely challenging task. Not impossible though, as I believe that all things are possible, but, truth be told, this country has pushed me to the upper echelon of my highest limit!

Egypt is dirty, exciting, chaotic, frenetic and steeped in a multitude of ancient historical monuments! The people are as varied as the country itself…….kind, helpful, out for your money, and always hassling you. People want to chat! People want “baksheesh” (tips) for everything from lifting a bag to giving you directions! We met a plethora of supremely kind folk who were willing to give us their hearts! We met an equal amount who were eager to rip you off in a heartbeat! You work it out! We still haven’t, and we have been here just over three weeks. So, go figure…..we are still trying to!

Our introduction to Egypt was a good one. We met a young Egyptian doctor, called Basem, on the plane, and before we knew it, he was offering to drive us to our hotel. I must add here that we arrived in Cairo at midnight. So, upon arrival, he was picked up by his Dad, who was equally as sweet and helpful, and they proceeded to drive us to “our hotel”, which by the way, was not on the way back to their home. Our hotel was one that we had picked from our guide book. I mean, at 1.00am, it’s hard to do the usual check and scourge for a decent place to stay.

As we drove towards downtown, our heads were reeling. Everywhere around us, all the signs and publicity were in Arabic! Yes, yes, we know that that’s obvious, but we still could not read it! What a change from the, “This is easy, I understand Spanish” that we had experienced over the last several months. Everything looked so different, but we were too tired to take it all in. Upon reaching our hotel, we checked in and crashed!

If Cairo was confronting in the quiet and early hours of the morning, you should have seen it at 10.00am! Smoggy, polluted, car horns honking incessantly, and people trying to sell you anything from perfume to “sheeshas” (a typical Egyptian, water filled smoking pipe)….. and Ombi trying to take this all in, wearing a pair of (long) shorts and a singlet top, which clearly covered my cleavage. But, uh-uh, this was not going to cut it, and I was soon inside my hotel room slipping on a long pair of pants, and a longer sleeved t-shirt. I would soon add a scarf around my shoulders to that repertoire! It was either that, or be constantly stared at! Not trusting my Italian temper…..I opted for the scarf! Let me tell you that wearing long pants (which I did for almost my entire duration in Egypt) has been yet another challenge. I never knew that I had it in me to do this in nearing (and sometimes more than) 40 degree temperatures!

One of the first things that Alex and I both sadly observed about Egypt is how very, very dirty it is. Trash absolutely everywhere! In the streets, in museums, at outdoor archaeological sites, and pretty much anywhere else that bits and pieces could be shoved and thrown! Trash cans? What and where were they? Surely the government should thus assume some of the responsibility of a nation hidden beneath layers of rubbish. To be honest, it took away from many of the places we visited. When we went to the Great Pyramids at Giza, for example, we probably spent an equal amount of time viewing the garbage beneath us, as the spectacular pyramids above us!

Cairo is certainly a place that would take weeks to explore, so I think that we gave it our best shot in the 4 or 5 days that we spent there. There are so many components to the city, and we knew that seeing it all would be impossible. Before I go on, I would like to mention that, although statistics vary, the religious breakup of the country is as follows: 85% Muslim, 10% Coptic Orthodox and 5% other. Although there were so many absolutely beautiful and architecturally ornate mosques, there were also some equally as beautiful churches. We spent our first day wandering about, observing both the architecture and the people. We also wandered over to the historical Khan Al-Khalili, where there is a huge bazaar. It really is exactly like you see in those Indiana Jones adventure type movies……narrow cobblestoned streets, with vendors selling everything under the sun, from spices to stone statuettes of Tutankhamen. And let me tell you, here I was really able to gain a new insight into what it was like to be hassled. They would NOT let up….. I tried ignoring, hiding under my scarf, speaking in a made up language…all to no avail! They persisted on hassling and subsequently fraying my nerves!

A magic moment, or a magic few hours, was sitting outside one of the mosques near Khan Al-Khalili bazaar and chatting to some enchanting ladies and young women we met there. They could barely speak English, and our Arabic was pretty appalling (although by the end of our stay in Egypt, we had learnt quite a few words). They were beautiful people, and shared their food with us as well as buying us some more! Sign language, gestures and our guide book’s basic Arabic section, all helped out, and we were able to make ourselves understood. The moral of the story is that if your desire is to be understood, you will be! We felt humbled and honoured, and as we left, one of the young ladies hugged me and told me that she loved me! I walked away and cried! To touch someone’s heart in such a significant way, and then have them touch yours is a feeling beyond description. To feel the moment! I will cherish that forever!

Another day was spent at the infamous and extraordinary Egyptian museum of Cairo. More than 120,000 relics and antiquities from almost every period of ancient Egyptian history are housed here. Despite its fame, however, we were saddened , yet again, by the haphazard way that everything was thrown together, often leaving large slabs of history, literally, within arms reach of its visitors, many of whom took up the opportunity, to touch. As a result, many pieces are damaged and well on their way to becoming destroyed. Having said that, nothing can take away from what this museum actually houses. The highlights were the Tutankhamen Galleries and the Royal Mummy Room. We have seen the treasures of this young king a million times before on the likes of National Geographic, but seeing it live was something else. This young pharaoh ruled during the 14th century before Christ, from 1336 BC to 1327BC. I felt like I had become one with history, and was blown away by the antiquity! The Mummy Room…how does one explain what it feels like to be separated, by merely inches, from mummified beings that existed so very long ago! Five and a half hours later, and still not having seen the entire museum, Alex and I were hungry, thirsty, tired and suffering from “Pharaonic phatigue”. Time to leave. Of course, as soon as we stepped out the hassling would begin yet again…taxis, perfume, papyrus……..”La, shokran” (no thank-you in Arabic) would end up being a phrase that I would use endlessly and tirelessly, and eventually firmly, in a bid to alleviate the rigours of a country where…….to hassle or to hassle MORE….that is TRULY the question!

No trip to Egypt would be complete without a trip to the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, of course. Think Egypt, think pyramids! It would be like coming to Australia and not visiting the Sydney Opera House! Only 12 kilometres from central Cairo, the pyramids are actually the last survivors of the Seven Wonders of the World. The structures are monstrous, and their age and outstanding shapes truly illicit taking your breath away. I tried to ignore both the excessive trash as well as the lack of trash cans, and try to fathom what my eyes were beholding. Again, seeing them in documentaries paled in comparison to the vision that beheld me! There are many theories, but what we do know about these pyramids is that they were massive tombs ordered to be constructed by the pharaohs. What we don’t know was how they were built! As I looked up and stared, it was a magic moment! My mind wandered, and along with it a multitude of thoughts flooded my brain cavity! Alien constructions? As I peered skyward, the idea did not seem all that foreign! Perhaps even more spectacular than viewing them from the outside, was what we saw when we went inside. The lengths gone to, to ensure a safe and sacred central burial, were again, beyond comprehension. Tiny, cramped and lacking air, with thousands of tons of stone surrounding it on all sides………this is what the ancients had seen fit for their nobility!

It only took us a few days to work out how very hot and dry Egypt was. After all, besides the cities and towns that lie along the Nile, the rest of the country is total desert. To be more specific, the entire country is a desert, with the places along the Nile being more fertile. It is in this country where we learnt that water truly was our best friend! Alex and I had been drinking no less than 4 to 6 litres each per day! Any less, and exhaustion, dehydration , fatigue and headaches seemed to set in. Needles to say, we have had our share of all of the above during our stay here.

The food has been great too, with several vegetarian options. Falafel (fried broad bean paste), fuul ( beans), tahina (swsame seed paste) , baba ganoush (made from eggplant), lentil soup, aish (bread), shawarma (kebabs). As usual, Alex and I try and get to the local hangouts – much cheaper, and usually tastier than the tourist options. Lipton’s must love Egypt! They drink lots of tea here (specifically Lipton’s), as well as ahwa (coffee). Ahwas are also the names give to the local coffee houses, where in addition to Lipton’ tea, which is usually drunk without milk but with sugar, you can also smoke a sheesha, or water pipe. We did not try it, as neither of us smoke, but it’s quite interesting to watch the locals.

Coffee houses are mainly frequented by Egyptian males, and foreigners, although we noticed that some young women are making inroads into this ancient pastime, which seems to be so very much a man’s world in Egypt! I must add that we have both been bowled over by the amount of men that smoke in this country…and that’s just cigarettes! You rarely see women smoking!

This has been only a sliver of what we saw, felt and experienced in Cairo. Where to next? We looked at the map, and figured that an oasis sounded exotic, and figured that it certainly would be fun! But which one? The Siwa Oasis, of course! Why? Of all of the oases it was the farthest away, and so we figured that it may be a little less touristy and isolated. But, did we know how hot it would be?

“The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.” – Okakura Kakuzo.

Until the next installment, Ombi.

Photos: 1.-View of the Citadel from the top of a mosque, Cairo. 2.- On the streets of Khan Al-Khalili Bazaar. 3.- View of Cairo with the pyramids in the background. 4.- One of the courts inside a mosque, inside the Citadel, cairo. 4.- Khan Al-Khalili Bazaar. 5.- With some of our new Egyptian friends, mosque near Khan Al-khalili. 6.- Pyramids of Giza, Cairo. 7.- Looking towards Cairo; view from the Giza pyramids. 8.- The great pyramid of Keops at sunset.

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Siginagi, Georgia.
Hi and welcome to veryitchyfeet.com. We are Ombi and Alex an Australian/ Ecuadorian couple who have, between us, visited some 90 countries and speak three languages; English, Italian and Spanish. We are intrepid travellers at heart. Follow us as we passionately share 30 years of travel know-how, adventures, exploration and detours with you. We want to motivate you to experience this amazingly diverse world we live in and show you how to do it!
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All content is owned by the authors Alex Benavides and Ombretta Zanetti. If you need to use any of content please contact us
en English
af Afrikaanssq Albanianam Amharicar Arabichy Armenianaz Azerbaijanieu Basquebe Belarusianbn Bengalibs Bosnianbg Bulgarianca Catalanceb Cebuanony Chichewazh-CN Chinese (Simplified)zh-TW Chinese (Traditional)co Corsicanhr Croatiancs Czechda Danishnl Dutchen Englisheo Esperantoet Estoniantl Filipinofi Finnishfr Frenchfy Frisiangl Galicianka Georgiande Germanel Greekgu Gujaratiht Haitian Creoleha Hausahaw Hawaiianiw Hebrewhi Hindihmn Hmonghu Hungarianis Icelandicig Igboid Indonesianga Irishit Italianja Japanesejw Javanesekn Kannadakk Kazakhkm Khmerko Koreanku Kurdish (Kurmanji)ky Kyrgyzlo Laola Latinlv Latvianlt Lithuanianlb Luxembourgishmk Macedonianmg Malagasyms Malayml Malayalammt Maltesemi Maorimr Marathimn Mongolianmy Myanmar (Burmese)ne Nepalino Norwegianps Pashtofa Persianpl Polishpt Portuguesepa Punjabiro Romanianru Russiansm Samoangd Scottish Gaelicsr Serbianst Sesothosn Shonasd Sindhisi Sinhalask Slovaksl Slovenianso Somalies Spanishsu Sudanesesw Swahilisv Swedishtg Tajikta Tamilte Teluguth Thaitr Turkishuk Ukrainianur Urduuz Uzbekvi Vietnamesecy Welshxh Xhosayi Yiddishyo Yorubazu Zulu