Towards the end of our stay in Hong Kong (which at two and a half weeks, was longer than we had originally anticipated) we visited Lantau Island, and I was pleasantly surprised to see that there really is life beyond the skyscrapers, neon lights, consumerism, commercialism and shopping that we had been forced upon us almost continuously. What a relief! Alex and I were determined not to leave HK, until we had seen “another side” to it. As most of the action and commotion are centralised around all of the above (skyscrapers, neon lights, consumerism and shopping), it can sometimes be hard to get away! Like any fast paced city, time seems to go so much more quickly, and before you know it, the day has passed, whilst you are left wondering, “What did I do?”

Back to Lantau. It is Hong Kong’s largest island in both size and height. It can be reached by either ferry or metro (which in this case goes underground). As we had not used the metro thus far, we decided to give it a go, as we had heard so much about its efficiency. We ended up getting a day pass and then, once on Lantau, an all day bus pass for the island as well. With this combination we had a wonderful day and saw some refreshing sights. Only 88,000 people live on Lantau, compared with 2.5 million on Hong Kong. The Island also boasts a Disney Land. Needless to say, that is one attraction we decided to skip! On arriving to the island, we immediately boarded a bus for Ngong Ping, a plateau 500 metres above sea level in the western part of the island. This is home of the Po Lin (Precious Lotus)Monastery, an enormous monastery and temple complex that that contains the huge and impressive Tian Tan Buddha statue, which with a height of 26 metres and a weight of 202 tonnes happens to be the world’s largest outdoor seated bronze Buddha statue. When you first catch sight of it, the view is outstanding! Upon arrival , it was raining quite heavily and the skies were hazy. This actually added to the mystery and made the grand statue appear even more awe inspiring. Well worth the 206 steps to get to its base, we were afforded with even more breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. The monastery close by was equally spectacular, with its several temples, rooms, praying areas and huge pots burning varying sizes of joss sticks, which are sticks of incense of the kind burned before a Chinese image, idol, or shrine. Again, quite a serene and magical atmosphere. I personally find a tranquility and calmness in the temples of the east, that I have not found in any of the other places of worship I have seen and visited across the globe.

Close by the monastery was the Wisdom Path, an outdoor replica of the centuries- old “Heart Sutra”, one of the world’s best known prayers, revered by Confucians, Buddhists and Taoists alike . The sutra is displayed on wooden pillars placed in form of figure 8 to symbolise idea of immeasurable splendour and infinity. Set amongst lots of trees and in a very quiet spot, it was a very spiritual place indeed. For the first time in ages, we both took some time out to meditate. What a wonderful feeling it is to feel so alive!

No trip to Lantau would be complete without a visit to Tai-O fishing village, which some call the “Venice of the east” due to all of its criss-crossing canals. Whilst I would not necessarily agree with this comparison, I will say that it truly is a delightful and traditional place, and it gave an interesting insight as to what Hong Kong may have looked like before it became neon-land. Many of the houses are on stilts, which further added to its old-time feel. Quaint and picturesque are two other adjectives that spring to mind. Having said this many houses are also made of collapsing corrugated iron, and in a state of disrepair. There are pockets that look like time stood still! The village is still inhabited by the Tanka people, who are descendants of Hong Kong’s first settlers. It’s also famous for its shrimp paste, which can be seen and bought everywhere…you can usually smell it before you can see it. It’s the kind of place where you stroll, relax, observe the fishermen in their traditional costumes….ad ask yourself if you are really in Hong Kong.

We had not had a chance to see the New Territories, so on the way back from Lantau, we used our all day metro pass to stop at a few places. It was getting late, so we only had time to jump out of the metro station and take a quick look-see, which of course, did it no real justice. From the little we saw….more people, more restaurants, more buildings, more shopping malls and more skyscrapers…..well, this is exactly what HK is known for! I believe, however, that the territory has some spectacular national parks. That’s for the next trip!

Whilst in HK we also visited some excellent museums. I thought that the Hong Kong Museum of History was exceptional, and a great place to start, in order to get a feel for Hong Kong’s varied and sometimes turbulent history. Everything was clearly displayed in an interesting fashion, making it one of the better museums I have seen on this entire trip. The HK Space Museum was also worth a visit. Although not HK or Asia specific, it really makes you realise that it truly is one big whopping universe that we live in! And there are millions more! That is something gargantuan to wrap your head around!

Last but not least, we visited the area called Stanley on the south eastern peninsula of Hong Kong Island. It is a seaside village, mainly known for its (mainly) tourist market. It also has some pretty views of the surrounding countryside as well as some of the interesting temples which seem to be dotted all over Hong Kong. I was also able to “replace” a pair of shorts that were days off tearing in the rear (wear and tear takes on a new meaning after almost a year of constant use!), and two singlet tops that were not far behind. Finally! I did have to compromise on the shorts though – they are Tommy Hilfiger rip-offs, but fit perfectly. You all know my stance on gear with labels, I ain’t giving anyone free advertising, so that means I will have to sit down and pick the label off. I must say, finding replacement singlet tops was also a hard task. No, I do not want sequins, pearls, tacky sayings, designer names or Hello Kitty! (What is it with that cat in Asia, she looks set to take over Mickey Mouse!)

So, after almost 3 weeks and equipped with both a Vietnamese and a Chinese visa, we were ready to move on. I want to add that part of the reason of our extended stay in Hong Kong was due to the fact that we were able to find a business centre where we were able to use free internet to our heart’s content, and for hours on end. In this way we were able to update our blog (as you would have realised, we were running a little behind). Surprisingly, internet cafes are both difficult to find and/or expensive in Hong Kong. I tried to find out why and this is my conclusion: Most people here have their own computers as they are so cheap. Most tourists only come for a few days shopping and then leave, so do not have the time nor the need to use them. Backpackers spend little time here…….so why have internet cafes for them?

Macao (or Macau) – to go or not to go, that was the question! We ummed and aahed as we had heard that it was no more than a gambling mecca. We have Jo and Richard to thank for our final decision to go take a peek at this tiny Chinese SAR (Special Administrative Region). So, where and what is this place? Coming up on our next blog.

Ombi

“I think that somehow, we learn who we really are and then live with that decision.” – Eleanor Roosevelt (1884 – 1962).

(Photos: 1.- Nature. 2.- The deities surrounding Lantau Island’s big Buddha. 3.- Offerings in front of Po Lin Monastery, Lantau Island. 4.- The Wisdom Path, Lantau Island. 5.- Tai-O fishing village, Lantau Island. 6.- Stanley, Hong Kong Island. 7.- Fine dining and laundry a la Ombi & Alex, in our shoe box suite, Hong Kong. 8.- Wan Kee! For once Nike, we actually agree with you!, Mong Kok shopping area.)

Wow! The madness continues! Wrapping your head around Hong Kong is like learning Chinese overnight! If Japan has neon or fluorescent pockets, Hong Kong is just one big light bulb! Where did I read that New York is the city that never sleeps, but Hong Kong is the city that never stops! Bingo! We have now been here a little over a week, and not a second goes by without my ceasing to be amazed, due what I see, or more to the point, what is thrust upon me. Hong Kong is everything all at once, and this indeed involves the good, the bad, the ugly and the very ugly! This is “immersion” at its best. Read on.

I must say that Hong Kong has never been on my “I gotta go in a hurry” list, but I am so thankful that I made it here. It has been, and continues to be a lesson in motion. The Hong Kong Airport was a clear indication of what was to come. Both Alex and I were overawed by its opulence. There was not a solitary designer (we are taking Gucci and friends here) that wasn’t represented, and I saw more make-up and cosmetic counters than I could poke a few hundred sticks at. What were we in for? When we arrived, it was absolutely pouring outside. The skies were grey and hazed over, but no use waiting, as it looked relentless and not like it was going to stop in a hurry. So we simply organised to catch a bus into town.

I should mention that Alex and I have decided to let the rest of out ticket around-the-world expire. We had two stops left on it. In theory we were to fly from Hong Kong to Vietnam, make our way overland to Bangkok, and finally fly from Bangkok to Melbourne. Instead, we have decided to go to China, and then through to Vietnam and “parts” (read, we do not know yet!) of South-East Asia. We are still not sure as to exactly when we will be home. Up until now, we have not required visas for any of the countries we have visited (ask Alex how much he LOVES travelling on an Australian passport!), but we do need them for both China and Vietnam, which we are organising from here.

We were headed for Kowloon, which is where the bulk of the budget accommodation is. Hong Kong is actually a series of islands, as well as a portion that goes on to become mainland China. As we crossed several bridges, I figured that, minus the rain, the views would have been spectacular. Once off the bus, the “search” began! Yes, looking for a place to sleep, which may I add, after a year, we are soooooo over doing! But it’s one of those things that has to occur. After hours of searching (and let me tell you, Hong Kong is expensive, and that doesn’t exclude accommodation) we found a tiny but clean room with air-conditioning, TV, and a small bathroom with toilet. OK, so we had two single beds, but for around AUD $30.00 a night, that is a bargain in Hong Kong! It is always a relief when we finally find a place to stay, as the search can often be exhausting. In heat and humidity, it’s even worse.

So, where and how do I begin to describe Hong Kong? Hmm…east meets west? More like west overtakes east! Good shopping? Perhaps, I would say, one big shopping mall! Bargain shopping? Not so easy these days (the fakes are cheaper in Thailand)! Perhaps 20 years ago! Furthermore, I would add that it is often hard to walk solely on the footpaths, and that at some point you will have to walk under, into or through something….that eventually leads you to……more shopping, usually in the form of….another ….. mall! Where else in the world would you see people queuing up to enter a Louis Vuitton store? I have categorically never seen this many designer stores in my life. That is a huge statement, but it’s true! This is a place where Lexus car dealerships sit directly opposite a street full of prostitutes, where clothes advertisements (famous and expensive brands) come in the form of children (white of course!), and where almost every known cosmetic brand has a range which includes a skin whitener! I know, I went in to a pharmacy to check this out. And as if it’s not enough telling an Asian woman that she needs to be white, there are also sanitary pads sporting the word “white” all over them. What message does this convey? Where does the folly stop? It’s a place that makes you believe that your only food option is McDonald’s, and your only coffee option Starbucks! No, no, no…look around, despite the madness, there are other options!

Getting back to the kids in advertising – I wanted to spew each time I saw those advertisements with pouting lips, fingers being licked, breasts (well, whatever exists when you are no older than 14!), and make up packed on so thickly that it makes KISS look like they aren’t even wearing foundation. Again, give me a break! It’s funny how a 23 or 28 or even 35 year old, isn’t going to look like that…ever…..because you know what, REAL women have hips and boobs! Besides, has nobody ever told these advertisers that some of us DON’T want to look like that! I didn’t think it was a good look back when I was 14, and I can assure you that, it certainly does not appeal to me as a 39 year old! What next? Images of an unborn foetus holding an YSL handbag? At least they will have the size right! You don’t get much smaller than a foetus!

For Alex and I, Hong Kong has been about really taking in what human nature is all about, and even where, globally, we are headed. We have been repulsed by the greed, and saddened by both companies’ coercion as well as people’s obvious pressure for the need to conform. For heaven’s sake, I saw a shop sporting “skinny jeans”, with one of the styles called “salad”! It doesn’t take a brain surgeon to work out that the image being portrayed here is that if you are thin you are worthwhile! Nothing new here, is it ladies? And I had to laugh when, in another store, I tried on a pair of size 8 shorts which fit me comfortably. Give me (another) break! Huge I am not, but size 8? So, what does that make a real size 8, a minus 4! Again, what image is being portrayed?

Now onto another favourite topic of mine, McDonald’s! I have been to several in Hong Kong. Buy something? You have to be kidding! I used to think that they were great for using the bathroom, but to be perfectly honest, they have been filthy here! On a few occasions I almost passed out when I saw the age of some of the people, or should I say children, working there too. One kid looked so young that I walked out and cried! Ah, and then there is the “set-up”; as soon as you walk in, there is a glass cabinet full of McDonald’s toys, so before your child has had time to say, “Mummy I want a hamburger”, it has probably said, “Mummy I want a toy”. So….one Happy Meal and a toy later……most of the food gets ditched, whilst the toy is the joy of the child’s life! This marketing to youngsters is horrendous! And to be fair, McDonald’s is not the only company who is doing it! Doubly horrendous is the amount of food that gets wasted whilst so many people in the world are starving. In light of our views on this (Alex is in total accordance), we both had to laugh when we saw what somebody had scribbled onto a poster we saw near the ferry terminal, “McDiabetes,McDisease, McObesity”(I promise I didn’t write it). Ironically, it is written under the word fiction? McDonald’s is crap! Is that fact or fiction?

When you are in the thick of it, it’s actually hard to believe that Hong Kong is lush and fertile, but it is. We have visited places with superb viewpoints and vistas, which are testimony to the fact that there is life beyond the buzzing commercial heart-beat for which this “country” is known for (its correct name is the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region. It was actually passed back from British to Chinese “ownership” in 1997). One of these was visiting the Bank of China building, in the area known as Central, and going up to its public viewing gallery on the 43rd floor. The panoramic view over the bay, and from where we could see the area of Tsim Sha Tsui where we are staying, was spectacular. Having said that, the entire central area, on both sides of the bay, and for several kilometres on each side, is covered with skyscrapers. At nighttime, you do not need to be up high to feel like you are in a neon vacuum! We also took the “Peak Tram“, which is a double reversible funicular railway, which takes you 1.4 kilometres up a hill, with a gradient of between 4 and 27 degrees. Some 7 minutes and 396 metres above sea level later, voila, there is a 360 degree view of Hong Kong! And spectacular it was! I hate to harp on, but the final and eventual view can only be obtained by going up several escalators, which pass yet more shops and commercial garbage. Yes, you can ignore them….but the point is, that you have to pass through them. We stayed at the top for several hours, and watched as day turned into night. It was breathtaking to see the lights on all the skyscrapers come on slowly, until the sky was completely black, and below was a sea of lights. And they say that New York has skyscrapers! I tell you what, it has some competition here. It is up here that we met Chris and Rita, a lovely Austrian/ Indonesian couple who live in Vienna. We exchanged e-mails and Rita told us to look them up when we go to Austria. I told her that we had only been there recently. Chris also told us how beautiful Indonesia was and that we should consider going there. I am not sure if I need any more encouragement. My quest to see the entire world seems to be insatiable!

Hong Kong has 6.9 million people packed into a land area of about 1,100 square kilometres, but those people are squeezed onto only about 10% of the available land space. The problems this has produced are many, including smog, smells (some identified, and some not), clutter and clangor! We have first hand experience, waking up at 8.00am sharp each morning to the tunes of a multitude of jack hammers, as they paved the way, for what looks like yet another shopping area! Also, Hong Kong is hot but more so, it’s humid. All of this together can be both draining and taxing on the system. It is imperative to drink copious amounts of water here, in order to stay hydrated. At first, even that did not seem to help. I got a ripper of a migraine on our second day, to the point of vomiting. In general I in particular have felt quite affected by the climate changes on this trip, and in a year, we have had several.

The food has been OK, but I must confess that I find the food a tad bland and oily after other Asian cuisines such as Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese. Having just come from Japan, we have been a little disappointed. The noodle soups have been fine, although I have to “pretend” that I do not know that they are cooked in some type of animal broth…noodles and veggies for me, broth for Alex! Seriously, if you are travelling for as long as we are, there has to be some leeway on the “vegetarian path” otherwise it becomes impossible. When trying to make my vegetarianism understood, Alex has devised the, “My wife doesn’t eat anything with eyes!”. They seem to get that concept, well kind of, anyway! We have also found a great coffee place, which supports the local community, makes great coffee as well as the fact that it costs half the price of Starbucks. Red Moment Coffee Express is literally a hole in the wall in an area called Wan Chai. Mok (who is from Hong Kong) and his staff are always friendly and helpful, and we have become “locals” frequenting the place most days to buy a coffee, or two! They have a variety of different coffees from around the globe, as well as snacks and sandwiches, at very reasonable prices. If you come to Hong Kong, ask around for this tiny place, you will pleasantly rewarded! Let’s support the locals!

Despite passing through several shopping areas which, as mentioned prior, often happens by default as you must pass through them, we have also enjoyed visiting several of the night markets, such as the Temple St Night Market and the Ladies’ Night Market. These are all great people-watching places, and it’s interesting to see individuals buying up like there’s no tomorrow. And I am talking locals as well as foreigners, actually, possibly more locals. Hong Kong truly comes alive at night, and it is fascinating to see people shopping obsessively and compulsively…..everything, anything, things that they need and things that they don’t!

Each night the HK’s Victoria Harbour comes alive with “A Symphony of Lights“, which is the largest permanent light and sound show in the world. I must admit that it is truly impressive, with buildings on both sides of the harbour lighting up, and laser beams and lights flickering all over the place. As we are staying close by, we have seen it both in its entirety, as well as in bits and pieces on several other occasions. It’s always full of people, as well as a multitude of photographers ready to take a snap (with their wide angled cameras of course!) of you up against the infamous backdrop of the harbour. Another Hong Kong landmark is the Star Ferry, which takes you across Victoria Harbour from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island in around 7 minutes. Alex and I have used it almost daily. Naturally, the views of both sides of the harbour are pretty impressive, as seen from the water.

We have also done several other things. We visited the Museum of Art, with Hong Kong and Chinese art as its core, as well as the Space Museum, which was fascinating. What lies”beyond us” never ceases to amaze as well as perplex me. We visited both of these places on a rainy day. As it is the rainy season here at present, when it rains, although it may not last for long, it pours! We also did a cruise of the harbour on an old Chinese junk (ship or a large vessel), called the Dukling. These one hour tours of Hong Kong’s infamous bay are free, and are organised by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. The particular junk we were on, complete with red sails, is the last sailing junk in Hong Kong, and is one of the country’s most famous icons. Here I met a group of Aussie sisters-in-law, Lee, Janet, Jeanette, Joy and her daughter Emily. What a great bunch. It was great having a chin-wag with some people from the home-land!

Now, it just wouldn’t be fair to say that HK is just one big shopping mall, without at least venturing out to see what lies beyond all of this. So, we decided to do a day trip out to Lamma Island, and were suitably impressed. No skyscrapers here, and only a short ferry ride away it was like another world. It is actually Hong Kong’s third largest island, although it’s only 13.6 square kilometres. The island abounds with seafood restaurants, but also has some great walking and hiking trail. We landed at Yung Shue Wan, and walked the 4 kilometre” family trail” to Sok Kwu Wan where you can then take the ferry back to Hong Kong Island. It was a very pretty and scenic walk. Along the way, we met, and continued to walk with Irina, a Russian/ American working in Hong Kong. It was interesting to hear her point of view on Hong Kong, and the lifestyle one lives here. Along the way we stopped at a shack along the trail selling a tofu dessert. Made by Lamma’s “tofu grandma”, the “Ah Por Fu” (literally, Grandma’s mean curd) was sensational!

As if our short 4 kilometre hike wasn’t enough, we decided to do another trail, which was supposed to be 2 hours round-trip, beginning and culminating at Sok Kwu Wan (which is where the other trail had finished). About 40 minutes into the walk (which was deserted, tranquil and peaceful, as it was 5.00pm and there was nobody else around), we saw another sign saying Ling Kok Shan, and pointing upwards. No heights or times were mentioned, but it couldn’t be that far up….or could it? We began walking, up, and up, and up, and some 20 minutes later, we realised that this was no 2 minutes away lookout. Having said that, we were on the trail now, and as Alex said to me, “You just love a challenge, don’t you Ombs!”. He knows me only too well! I wasn’t going to stop until I hit the peak, which in all fairness was not too far away. As we walked higher and higher, the views over the lush and undulating little island, totally surrounded by water were arresting. Some 40 minutes later we hit the peak (which was 250 above sea level), sweating like we’d run a marathon. The only ones up there, we were presented with a sumptuous sunset, with the sun appearing like an orange ball of fire. I felt so at peace, and once again, I felt like we were being shown a little bit of paradise! As we started to descend, in the other direction, we realised that the trail did not go back down and join onto the original one. As it was getting dark, our only option was to go down the same way we came up. OK, so we did not have a flashlight when we should have, but hey, there’s nothing like an adventure, so we powered down that hill like nobody’s business. Once down, we walked back to the ferry terminal. Easy peasy! Actually, we were knackered! It feels so amazing to be fit and healthy enough to do this! Our bodies are our temples, and we should treat them as such! More than often, we do not. After this, it was a ferry ride back and to bed!

Onto some practical things. We have managed to organise a Vietnamese visa by going directly to the Vietnamese Embassy, and we are now waiting to collect our Chinese one, which we also organised by going directly to the Embassy. We also both managed to get a haircut too. Mine was just a trim, to give it some style, and Alex’s was to reshape his wig! It should be illegal for men to have hair that thick! If I could only have 10% of the hair that Alex has! We found a place called Hair Spa, which looked modern, professional and funky. Sunky did a great job on my hair! (Thanks Sunky, this is the best cut I have had in ages), and Angel an equally good job on Alex’s.

Alex has also finally bought a new pair of hiking shoes. Without going into specifics, he bought a pair of Hi-Tec hiking shoes back in Costa Rica, which pretty much began falling apart from day dot. They came with a company guarantee, regarding what to do should they be defective, complete with a message from a Mr Frank van Wezel, who is the chairman of Hi-Tec Sports, stating that he stands behind this pledge. What a load of hocus pocus! Despite several e-mails to this man about the rapidly deteriorating state of Alex’s shoes, we really got no help whatsoever. I lie, he did say that we could change them in the USA! And of course, we would fly there just to do this. My ensuing e-mails to him were useless, and we got no help or assistance at all. The bottom line is that the care factor was zero! Please take the time to look at the state of Alex’s shoes, and when choosing a brand of footwear, ask yourself if this is what you want! Boo and hiss to Hi – Tec! Frank van Wesel, if you cannot stand behind a promise, don’t make it in the first place!

Finally, we have had a few laughs at some of the wording on different signage we have seen. Rather than being misspelt, it is the way that they actually read in English. You have to appreciate a fashion store being called “Wanko” and a restaurant called “Fu Kee”. What about “Wah Kee” snacks, Pui Kee Arts, and a head lice remover whose brand is “Falic”? But my favourite has got to be the words “Wan Kee” directly beneath a Nike sign! Ya gotta love that! Many of you know only how much that one floated mine (and Alex’s ) boat! So what you have is wanko clothes, wankee shoes and fukee food! I hope no offence is taken here, as I am sure that there are words in English which read in an equally ridiculous manner in some other languages.

A few more days in Hong Kong, and off to China we will go.

Ombi

“I went into a McDonald’s yesterday and said, ‘I’d like some fries’. The girl at the counter said, ‘Would you like some fries with that?’ ” (Jay Leno 1950 – )………I know I am a shit-stirrer, but I just could not resist this one!

NOTE 1: If you have not seen the movie Super Size Me , take a look at it. It chronicles the adventures of filmmaker Morgan Spurlock eating nothing but McDonalds for a month. Click onto the McDonalds link here to see what he has to say about his experience! I also recommend a book called Fast Food Nation, by Eric Schlosser, which examines the history and growth of fast food restaurants in American culture. Both Alex and I have read it, and admit that it is an intoxicating read!

We made it back to Paris safely and easily, after which we went “straight” back to the the hotel close to the airport (we had stayed there the night before flying out to Germany). Well “straight” as in all the way back into the centre of Paris, and then straight back to the hotel! Why? Well, it should only have been one stop from the airport, but as we failed to see the “express” sign on the train, we had no choice but to go ALL the way back in, to then have to come ALL the way back out! Neither of us were in the mood for a free joy ride, and adding on more than an hour when you are tired is just plain boring! We were both p!*@! d off, to say the very least. We finally make it though! Needless to say, it was shower and beddy-bye!

From 1997 to 1998 I worked in Japan as an English teacher, first in a place called Tsuchiura (about 60 kilometres south-east of Tokyo) and then in central Tokyo. My dearest friends were, without a doubt, made when I worked in Tsuchiura. Amongst them are Yuko & Yuji
( “Nashville”) Mizushima, the parents of my dear friend Sayuri, who now lives with her husband, Tony, and little boy Kai (with Alyssa on the way!) in Hawaii. Sayuri was one of the Japanese staff at Nova, the English school I worked at, and Tony worked there as a teacher. Some of you may recall that I was in their bridal party in Hawaii, in 2002, just after my own marriage in New York (both happened on the same trip). All of these people constitute yet another one of my special overseas families and yes, we do manage to stay in touch.

We would be arriving in Japan on the evening of the 10th August (Alex’s birthday) and flying out on the 16th. Yes, I know, that is so little time! Unfortunately, we did not have much choice here. We were wait-listed for ages on the Paris to Hong Kong flight (which we had to take in order to proceed on to Japan), but it was fully booked out. Not much leeway on the other side either, as our ticket expires on the 18th August. Decisions, decisions! Alex and I had figured that the easiest way out of this was to do a “whirlwind tour” of Japan, and make it back to Hong Kong, before the expiration date of our one-year ticket. Remember that theoretically we still had Vietnam to Bangkok and Bangkok to Melbourne sectors “to use” which had to be included within that time frame. For all of that to take place, we could leave Japan no later than the 16th. So six days it would be!

I had called Yuko from Morocco a couple of weeks earlier, and told her of our exact plans, and she was so excited. She immediately told us that she and Yuji (Nashville San) would pick us up from Narita Airport. Needless to say, we would be staying at “Bed & Breakfast Mizushima”. Takayuki Okada was one of my old (and favourite!) students in Tsuchiura and we have also remained good friends and in touch over the years. He too would be there to greet us at the airport. It was so good to see the three of them on our exit, and there were hugs all around.

I cannot even begin to tell you how hot and sticky it was during our short sojourn in the Land of the Rising Sun. Imagine hot (as in 40 degrees celsius) combined with extremely high humidity. I felt like I was perpetually wet. If I was 20 kilos lighter, I would have considered entering a few wet t-shirt competitions. Of course, I jest, but I am sure you are conjuring up the picture I wish to portray!

On the night of our arrival, we were driven back to Yuko and Yuji’s. On this trip I truly understood why it was so important to worship the air-conditioning god, who would be our saving grace several times over in so few days! If you think air-con is useless (and I too have indeed muttered these words on several occasions), come to Japan in August! Blessed be the air-con god! Before arriving home, we stopped at a place called Coco’s , where we also met Taka (Takayuki), where we had a little snack. It was lovely just to sit down and relax, and once again I felt like no time had passed between us. Whilst it was 5 years since Alex and I had seen Yuko and Yuji, I had not seen Taka since I left Japan 10 years ago. It was after midnight when we finally parted company.

Yuko and Yuji live in Otto-Minami, only kilometres from Tsuchiura, in a typical Japanese house. Most houses in Japan usually have at least one or two rooms with tatami mats (originally made from woven straw) on the floor, and many people sleep on mattresses on the floor called futons, which although appear to be quite thin, are surprisingly comfortable. Alex and I got to experience both the tatami mats as well as the futons at “Bed & Breakfast Mizushima”. The air-con god also played a big role in our room. Again we felt blessed, as the only other time I have felt humidity quite this bad, was when I lived in Japan 10 years ago. It is all devouring, and makes you feel listless.

We had been spoilt in both France and Germany, and this continued in Japan. On a serious note here, I feel so incredibly blessed to have such wonderful and special friends, many of whom have become my family. I personally do not believe at all in the saying that blood is thicker than water. You can choose your friends but not your family! For me, many of these friends have become my “family of choice”, which they have achieved by merit and by choice, and not merely by “chance”. Visiting the many members of my extended family, and which have subsequently become part of Alex’s, has been the highlight of our journey. I can close my eyes and recall so many fabulous times with so many of these amazing people!

After a great night’s sleep we awoke to the buffet breakfast of the century! Yuko truly gave a new twist to the saying, “putting on a spread”! It was indeed such a spread, that you could barely see the tablecloth – miso soup, nori (seaweed sheets), natto (fermented soya beans), bread, pastries, fruit (including blueberries from the garden), vegetables, omelet, yoghurt, tea, coffee……our eyes ogled! Where did we start? And Yuko was the perfect hostess, encouraging us to try everything. I gave it my best shot, but there is only so much that one can fit into “her” stomach. Now, referring to “his” stomach (please step in Alex), a boy’s gotta do what a boy’s gotta do. It was a pleasure to watch Alex going hammer ‘n’ tongs and trying everything, and an even greater pleasure watching the complete and utter look of satisfaction on his face. And no, I am NOT jealous that Alex has lost 7 kilos on this trip DESPITE the amount he sometimes eats! Genuinely, Japanese food is sooooooooooooooo good. The flavours are sublime yet tasty, and the Japanese really do understand the concept that you do not have to drench everything in either fat or sugar for it to taste good!

From what Yuko cooked up at home, which was always a culinary delight, both she and Nashville (the Nashville story is coming up soon) spoiled us rotten with constantly taking us out for meals. We ate, amongst many other things, soba noodles, tempura, sashimi and sushi (all traditional Japanese dishes), and even some mighty fine Italian (it was right up there, let me tell you). I told you, those Italians pop up everywhere! I must be honest, despite the fact that I did not have very high expectations of good Italian food in Japan, I was proved very wrong! What we had was excellent!

Yuko and Nashville also took us out on a couple of day trips. The countryside around where they live in beautiful, with lots of Shinto shrines dotting the place. We also visited the Tamatsukuri Rainbow Tower, which ascends 60 metres above above Lake Kasumigaura, which has a superb 360 degree view. Not only can you see Lake Kasumigaura (part of which I used to go walking or jogging around when I lived in Tsuchiura) and Ibaraki’s famous Mt Tsukuba, but on a clear day, you can see Mt Fuji too! (By the way, I climbed Mt Fuji all the way to the top with Tony, Sayuri’s husband 10 years ago).

 

We also spent a full day with Taka, who drove us around to see some more of the beautiful countryside around Tsuchiura, some old friends as well as new, as well as checking out some of my “old turf”. We passed by Nova in Tsuchiura, where I used to work as an English teacher, as well as the apartment blocks close by where I used to live! So many memories! I had forgotten so much, but the memories came rushing back, quickly and furiously! Alex could only stare at me as I stared at those apartment blocks! A big slab of concrete? Perhaps to some, but this multi-level concrete slab was yet another one of the many reminders of what an extraordinary life I have lived, and indeed continue to live. Whilst I do believe in destiny, I also believe that each person creates her or his own. I suddenly felt overwhelmed by the destiny which I had created for myself. And suddenly I felt both very humbled and very proud by what I had and continue to be able to see in this lifetime! My passion for the world, its people and their cultures is innate. I now simply accept the fact that I will never get “rid” of the travel bug. This is the one bug that my system is over “fighting with”, and has learnt to live harmoniously with. It lives in my bloodstream, my heart and my soul, and it does not affect my health. Sometimes it lies dormant, and at other times it vociferously springs back to life, but it is always there!

Taka took us to see Norio, another one of my ex-Nova students from Tsuchiura. He is now married to Yukako, and they have a little baby boy called Yasuke. We had a tranquil couple of hours together, sipping on ice-cold green tea, then coffee as well as Japanese sweets. Later, we all went to Norio’s ranch, as he and his wife are into horse riding and have a few horses of their own. The Japanese countryside is so picturesque, and for some reason the energy so serene.

Later in the day, Taka took us to visit some other friends, the Nitta family. Hotaka and his wife, Mitsuko, are journalists, and they have two beautiful and creative children (a dying breed!), Ayuko (their daughter) and Toya (their son). They live in the countryside of Ishioka, in a gorgeous and traditional Japanese house. An intelligent and vibrant couple, they have shunned “the modern Japanese life” for the simple life, which Hotaka has also written a book about…….maybe Paris (Hilton) should take a leaf out of it! Ha, ha! Their car is not new (uncommon in Japan!), they do not have mobile phones (what, are they freaks?), they do not have a television and the young children do not own Play Stations or X-boxes (is that what they are called, as I am not at all clued up on these things). Our visit with the family was based around Mitsuko pulling out a big map, and having us physically draw on and explain to them all the countries we had visited. The children were not agitated or fidgety at all and asked us lots of questions about our travels. Toya even pulled out a book on animals, and asked Alex to how him all the animals we had seen on our travels. I was flabbergasted! And when we left, both children gave us gifts of origami (traditional Japanese paper folding) which they had personally made . I would be hard pressed to be able to pick even a couple of kids in Australia who might perhaps act in this manner, or do something so imaginative! (Laura and Kylie, you have done a brilliant job with your girls Isabella and Marley. I believe that they would do something like this.Congratulations!)

Although time was limited, we had to visit Tokyo. I mean, how could you possibly come to Japan and not see it? We caught a train in, and spent one long and excessively hot day there, and least managed to see some of it. We got off at Ueno station, and again, the memories came flooding back. Ueno park, close by, had been another former stomping ground, and during the Sakura, or Cherry Blossom season it looks spectacular. As prior mentioned, I was grateful to the air-con god, who greeted us each time we stepped into a station, shop, or enclosed space. The heat outside was stifling and exhausting. Whilst we were in Japan, Tokyo reached its peak highest temperature for that summer, which was was over 43 degrees celsius plus an obscenely high humidity factor. Walking outside was like being in a sauna!

We also spent several hours in Akihabara (a Tokyo suburb) with shops selling everything from mobile phones, to computers, to gadgets that I could not even put a name to. Alex, being a bit of a computer and electronics buff, was in utopia! I was over it by the second or third shop, but hey, it’s all about give and take! I seriously could not cope with all those fluorescent lights, they made me feel druggy and drowsy. Towards the end, even the searing heat of the outdoors was better than those lights. As Alex continued to look at computers and the likes, I tried to “entertain myself” by people watching and observing. I wondered if we were on the brink of an apocalypse, because people were buying as if the world was about to end! Where does it stop? Who has created this “unnecessary need”?

As for the publicity and advertisements…….I asked myself the same question that I had asked myself a million times over whilst living in Japan 10 years ago, ” WHY are the majority of models (in advertisements) caucasian, and IF they are Asian, WHY are they white, and WHY do their eyes look ALMOST like ours?”. This is craziness! Not only are we fed the lie that if we do not buy until we drop (literally!) that we are useless, but people across the world are being told that if they are not caucasian that they just do not cut it! Who, when and why decided this? I think that Asian people are beautiful exactly the way they are! Whatever happened to loving yourself for who you are? I expect and suspect that this must be an extremely difficult task to undertake, when everything around points to the very fact that you are NOT good enough as you are! I am horrified by the number of “whitening creams” (you heard that correctly!), that exist not only in Japan, but in the Asian market…….yes, pop some moisturiser on your face, and get that added bonus of whitening your skin! I am not willing to name the brands, but they include many, from the cheaper to the more costly. I repeat, we are being sold a lie!

I should mention that we also went through Shinjuku (another Tokyo suburb)….more shopping, shops, people, advertising and lies being sold! Where does the madness stop? When do we stop believing that a Gucci handbag or an obscenely priced Lacoste t-shirt is not the ultimate expression of success, or personal freedom, for that matter? And just when you thought the cola “fight” was was over; first there was Coke, then Pepsi, followed by Diet (or Light, depending on your country) Coke and then Diet (or Light) Pepsi. But of course, we then have the whole “my brand’s better then your brand “deal happening, so Pepsi follows with Pepsi Max. Not to be outdone, out comes Coke with its new Coke Zero bandanna! What’s next? Yeh that…….Pepsi “Nex”? (Does this even exist in Australia yet?) Give me a break! Who buys (physically as well as metaphorically) this crap (again, physically as well as metaphorically)!? Same shit (similar, anyway), different brand. Who just got sucked in big time?

 

Heavy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (That’s what Neil from the Young Ones would have said!) Now onto something lighter. The story of Nashville San. Whilst I was working in Tsuchiura some 10 years ago, Sayuri (who worked at Nova, and is Yuko and Yuji’s daughter) organised a dinner at her house. We all had a great night, and a great spread was put on, with the expected fantastic food and beverages. At first, we were all a little surprised when Yuji came out with a western style shirt, full-on western boots, jeans, ranch hat, guitar, followed by his singing a country and western repertoire, and in English! Brilliant! Encore, encore! He then took us upstairs to show us “the collection”, which included more boots, jeans, shirts and other “western” paraphenalia than you could poke a stick at. He and Yuko had also visited the USA several times, including all of the prime country and westen sites, and he had photos to prove it! In Japanese, the word San is used like Mr or Ms (Mrs or Miss) in English, the difference being that they nearly always use it between each other, as a sign of respect. They do not expect this of foreigners, as they know that our customs are different. On that night, however, I decided that “Nashville San” was a name that suited Yuji perfectly, as it was both playful and respectful. And so, the name Nashville San was both born and coined, and this is what he has gone by eversince. Even his wife and son-in-law, Tony, call him by this name!

We managed to catch up with Taka one more time, and meet his lovely elderly mother too. She was so cute! You will have to take my word on this, as I do not have a picture of her. She told me that she did not like the way she looked on that day! Taka was our translator, as his mum spoke no English, and my Japanese (shamefully, after living there for almost a year) does not go beyond a few basic words. Let’s say that it is non-existant! Saying goodbye to Taka, was also sad, but I know that we will always remain friends.

No sooner had we arrived, than it was time to leave. As we were leaving early on the morning of the 9th (August), Yuko and Nashville San had graciously organised for us to stay at a hotel virtually on the grounds of Narita Airport, where they insisted on driving us the night before. Again, I felt so blessed to have such amazing friends! Not only did they drive us there, but they also took us out for dinner, yet again! This time we went to a sushi bar, you know, where all the little bits and pieces pass you by on conveyor belt type contraption, and you can grab to your heart’s content, until you are full…….and keep going, even if you are are full, just because you can and the taste is so good ! I simply must mention the fact that powdered Japanese green tea is yummy, here or elsewhere.

After dinner, we were dropped off at Narita Airport Rest House, where it was time to say goodbye. We hugged and waved, and hugged again, and thanked Yuko and Nashville San for our memorable few days in Japan. But we will see each other again soon, as they will be visiting Australia next year. Alex and I are looking forward to showing them our beautiful country, as well as returning some of the outstanding hospitality they showed us.

The Rest House was very convenient and comfortable, and I highly recommend it if you have an early morning flight. Needless to say, “getting to the airport” the next morning was a breeze.

August 16th – bound for Hong Kong, and only two days off having completed one year of travelling! Where will we be and what will we do when the ticket expires?

Ombi

Note: Although it’s in Japanese, Taka has a blog too! Check it out and see if you can find a photo of someone you know!

Dedication: Nashville San, Yuko San and Taka, you are all exemplarary friends. Thank you for your hospitality and kindness, which you gave us so freely and openly. Thank you also for enabling us to see, experience and understand a part of the Japanese culture that many foreigners never will. You are very special people, and all hold a very special place in our hearts. Yuko and Nashville San, we await you in Australia with open arms. Taka, you too will always be welcome. May the goodness of the world always surround you. Arrigato for everything!

 

“Look at what your idea of success would be. The more that you take inexternal motivators, the more it reduces your ultimate satisfaction because it doesn’t come from inside.” – Chris Messina.

(Photos: 1.- Tsuchiura, that’s the place I used to work. 2.- Alex in Hong Kong Airport, opening the gift Michaela gave him in Germany. 3.- Ombi with Yuko San and Nashville San, at “Bed & Breakfast Mizushima”. 4.- Ombi and Takayuki Okada. 5.- Campai! (cheers) Alex and Nashville San enjoying a beer together at home. 6.- The breakfast spread! 7.- Ombi and Yuko “slurping” soba noodles at a soba noodle restaurant, which, by the way, is quite acceptable to do in Japan. 8.- Shinto temple, near Tsuchiura. 9.- “Look Taka and Alex, that’s where I used to live”, Tsuchiura. 10.- L to R: Norio (with baby Yasuke), Yukako, Ombi and Taka. 11.- The simple life! L to R: Hotaka, Toya, Ombi, Ayuko, Mitsuko and Alex. 12.- In a market near Ueno station. 13.- What can I say? ONLY in Japan! Akihabara. 14.- This is what’s “nex”! 15.- Nashville San singing for Alex, surrounded by all his country ‘n’ western paraphernalia. 16.- Ombi and Taka eating dango , a favourite Japanese sweet of mine. 17.- Our last night with the Mizushimas, eating sushi. 18.- Saying our last goodbyes, after we got dropped off at Rest House, Narita Airport. 19.- Catch us we’re falling! Alex and Nashville San at the “bottom” of the Tamatsukuri Rainbow Tower, Ibaraki Prefecture.)

Destino : Laos & Thailand
Mayo 2005