Discover some hidden parts of Turkey and Cyprus

Turkey was going through some tough political times whilst we were there. Whilst we were in central Anatolia, amongst the infamous fairy peaks of Cappadocia, we heard that there had been a military coup. There has also been a bombing at the Istanbul Airport recently which meant that we kind of had Cappadocia to ourselves! Great for us but not so good for the locals or for tourism. Hot air-ballooning, exploring, hiking, weaving in and out of houses that looked like they had once belonged to regal fairies were part of our daily routine for a week or so. We met great people and made lots of new friends.

The wild horses run through the fairy peaks of Cappadocia, Turkey.

A snippet of the countries travelled between 2014 and 2016

Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, USA, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Maldives, India, Nepal, Georgia, Armenia, Nagorno-Karabakh, Turkey, Cyprus, Slovenia, Austria, Slovakia, Germany, Canada, Hawaii.

Fast Forward in 2017. We travelled around Australia, Chile, Argentina and currently in Paraguay… New travel blogs are coming soon on 2018! Stay tuned and Subscribe to veryitchyfeet.com – A LifeTime of Travel Detours; to receive travel updates on your email.

I cannot recall at what point we decided that we would visit Germany, or to be exact, visit one of my dearest friends, Michaela. Michaela and I met in Indiana in the USA some 18 years ago, way back when I worked on a summer camp in Indiana. We hit it off from day dot. At the time, Michaela was 19 years old and studying to become a translator. Apart from her effervescent and bubbly personality (you can just imagine how we were drawn to each other), I was stunned at how well she spoke both English and Italian….to the point where I felt her Italian was better than mine! This was the beginning of a very special friendship! I would go and visit her in Germany a few years later, in 1992, but after that it was letters (which eventually morphed into e-mails) and the occasional phone call. Communication was not always necessarily frequent, but we never lost touch!

Before I left Australia, around a year ago, I called Michaela and told her of my forthcoming trip around-the-world. I also told her how how I really wanted to visit, but that I could make no promises, as I simply did not know how much time we would have by the time we reached Europe. I always hoped, but could not see how it could possibly eventuate! I later found out that Michaela always knew in her heart that it would eventuate, and continued to hold on to this belief. I believe that this is a large portion of the reason that we were reunited again, after 18 years!

This is a story about love, friendship and commitment. It reads like something out of a book or a movie, but it is the real-life tale of how a “novel” became a reality. Across the miles, neither Michaela nor I ever lost contact, and our friendship grew stronger. On this trip, hope eventuated into something tangible and real.

I am not sure at what point it happened, but Alex and I started discussing a potential flight to Germany, to visit my long-time friend Michaela. It could not have been much longer than a week before booking the flight! We had originally wanted to spend some 12 days in Japan, leaving Paris, and going via Hong Kong around the 4th of August, but all flights between Paris and Hong Kong were fully booked, our scheduled flight being for the 9th of August. As the time grew closer, although we were wait-listed for the Paris to Hong Kong sector, it was becoming increasingly evident that it was not going to happen. What to do with all those “extra” days then? The solution seemed simple. Why not visit Michaela? I must confess that this had crossed my mind a few times prior, but I pushed it to the back….I mean, we were on a waitlist that would eventuate, right? Wrong! I told Alex of my plan, and we immediately began an internet search for a potentially cheap flight. I would like to say that Lady Luck was on our side, but I truly believe it was destiny. Yes, some really terrific deals were indeed available. It seemed as though the planets were aligned, and ready to offer Michaela and I a gift. Bursting at the seams with excitement, I promptly e-mailed Michaela, and asked her how she felt about receiving some visitors IN a few days FOR a few! Needless to say, the answer was affirmative, but I cannot even begin to imagine what Michaela thought when she received that e-mail.

Over the next few days, I tried to change the date we were flying from Casablanca to Paris. This involved making Madrid only a quick stop-over (originally, we were supposed to be flying from Casablanca to Madrid, stopping for a few days, and then continuing onto Paris). A few e-mails to the Flight Centre in Australia to change the dates on our around-the-world ticket, working out when Michaela was available, and getting a super cheap deal from an airline company called German Wings (2 euros return trip, Paris – Stuttgart plus taxes)……it all seemed to work out, and before we knew it, we had booked a flight to Stuttgart on the 4th August, coming back on the 8th. I couldn’t believe it, and I am not sure that Michaela could either!

Whilst Michaela is not your typical stereotypical German, in that she is very relaxed and easy going, she definitely has that brilliant German attention to detail. She sent me a wonderfully detailed agenda of how and where to go on reaching Stuttgart Airport (that only a German could). We were to catch a train from the airport to the central Stuttgart station, and then another to Karlsruhe. From there she would be waiting “with my arms wide open” ( I have quoted her here) for us. Herxheim, where she and Matthias live is then a half hour car ride away. Too easy!

The flight over was short and comfortable, and I would highly recommend German Wings. On landing, I could hardly contain my excitement, and Alex could clearly see this. Despite Michaela’s detailed information on how and when we would arrive at Karlsruhe, we actually arrived at the Stuttgart central station earlier than anticipated (as we had left the airport earlier…….Michaela had not calculated on us getting our bags so quickly), and thus we could get an earlier train to Karlsruhe, which would arrive an hour earlier. I stumbled over my own feet, in order to get to a phone, and ask Michaela is this was OK. Needless to say it was.

The train ride to Karlsruhe, as expected, was efficient and fast, and needless to say, clean! No need to sit on magazines and cover the headrest with a plastic bag here! Alex could sense my excitement. The hour flew by, so to speak! The train had arrived, on time and to the minute! The people in front of us seemed to take forever to get off! I wanted to push them off! Alex was looking at me, and his eyes said what his mind was possibly thinking, which was that I would be off soon enough! It wasn’t soon enough for me!Finally, we were off, and as I walked with my two backpacks, and with my chest thrust forward, I scanned and strained my eyes until I saw Michaela, waiting with Mathias, her husband. As we screamed (and I do mean screamed, with not the slightest exaggeration) out each other’s names, I hurled my small back pack into Alex’s (waiting!) arms and we ran towards each other, and hugged, and hugged and cried and hugged some more! We were both so emotional! The two husbands stood there and watched, and more importantly, understood! After a few more hugs, and kisses, and certainly more tears, Michaela introduced Mathias to me, I introduced Alex to her, and we introduced the boys to each other! It was like no time had ever lapsed, and I believe that in a true friendship, you can always take up where you left off! Michaela and I looked into each others eyes in a way that belies words. Our hearts and souls captured the moment beautifully!

It was a truly emotional welcome”, and Michaela made us feel at home from the second we reconnected. Our time in Germany was short, but it was a precious reminder that what truly counts in life is quality and not quantity! Michaela and Matthias, live in a typical little “gingerbread house” village, called Herxheim, in the beautiful German countryside. In this neck of the woods there is no smog or pollution, just lots of green rolling hills, vineyards and tranquility! Just what the doctor ordered! (or in my case, perhaps, just what the naturopath ordered…or the chiropractor!). Michaela and I chatted all the way back to Karlsruhe, which was half an hour nonstop…..oh yes, the trip was half an hour, but I am referring to the talking here! The guys did not get a word in sideways! No sooner had we arrived than we were being treated to brunch, including various cheeses, breads, sweet pastries, and excellent coffee (which we continued to indulge on for our entire duration with Michaela). It was good to be “home”; when travelling, special friends, special moments (and Alex would argue, special food!) is the closest we get! The rest of that afternoon was spent on chatting, relaxing and walking around the gingerbread village, with a stopover at “Enzo Tornatore Gelateria”…..those Italians get around! Whilst the others opted for various shades of ice-cream (including milkshakes), I went for, you guessed it, (more!) coffee!

As our next day was a Sunday, we were all able to spend it together. We had two excellent tour guides, and were “escorted” in a personal vehicle. I must say, after months and months of lugging backpacks and food, and jumping from one form of transport to another, this was a refreshing change! First we visited Speyer, and its famous Imperial Cathedral, which is the greatest Roman Church in the world, with construction dating back to approximately 1030 to 1124. The township is another gorgeous little gingerbread village, right on the river Rhine, which we took the time to walk along, but not before stopping for a snack at one of the several eateries, close to the plaza on which the cathedral sits. Later, back in Herxheim, it was snack time again, this time at “Eiscafe Venezia”, this placed owned by Renzo, a Venetian. I told you, they are everywhere those Italians. But as long as they take their good food and drinks with them, that’s mighty fine by me! Here we were joined by Michaela’s parents, who both speak English and Rosemarie speaks Italian too. Again, although it was the first time I had met Rosemarie and Dirk, I felt like I had known them all my life.

On the Monday we were able to catch up on answering some e -mails and other bits and bobs, as Michaela and Mathias were both busy for the day. That night was dinner at “Brauhof” in Landau, some 10 kilometres from Herxheim. It brought back so many good memories, as it is one of the places I had come to eat with Michaela, all those years ago (at the time she was living in Landau). Alex tells me that the beer was excellent! It would want to be! This IS Germany! My enormous baked potato, was bursting at the seams with a variety of different veggies and cheese. No skimpy portions in this country!

Our second last day (minus Mathias, unfortunately) we were treated to a phenomenal breakfast at Cafe Ruelzheim in Landau, by Dirk and Rosemarie. It was almost like an English breakfast with tea….but this was a German breakfast with coffee…..as well as bread, fresh pretzels, home-made marmalade, a variety of cheese, cut meats, and fruit. We have been so spoiled lately. This would be the last time I would see Dirk and Rosemarie. What truly wonderful people! When my mum was alive she would say, “Dimmi con chi vai, e ti dico chi sei”, which loosely translates to, Tell me with whom you go and I will tell you who you are. In those days, I would scoff a little, as mum was always full of anecdotes and sayings with meanings and morals…… probably because she was nearly always right! But as I hugged them both before we parted company, and cried, I told them that it was clearly evident why Michaela was such a wonderful human being. Travelling can sometimes bring sad moments, but they are without a doubt overshadowed by the happy ones. I have so many special “footprints” in my heart. I hope it’s big enough to hold them all. I think so!

Later that afternoon, it was on to visit a “shoe city” (Hauenstein). It had more shoe shops in a solitary area than I had ever seen. We also passed some very impressive castle on clifftops, including Trifels Castle. From the distance, it looked exactly as a medieval German Castle should, large and imposing. Later, some more sightseeing around the region where Michaela lives, including Leinsweiler, located in the German wine district (Weinstrasse). Again, more gingerbread houses…..I was waiting for Hansel and Gretel to pop out of one of them! There is something serenely tranquil and soul-lifting to be amongst such lushness and greenery, with so few people, with spectacular vistas and to not only be in the moment, but to be part of that moment.

Our few days in Germany were going far too quickly. We had all bonded so well, and both Mathias and I as well as Michaela and Alex, had some long and interesting conversations, well into the early hours of the morning. On Wednesday, our last morning, we got up at 7.00am so that we could have breakfast with Mathias, as he was leaving early, and it would be the last time we saw him. Mathias and I had become firm friends over the last few days, and I was so incredibly happy that Michaela had met somebody who was her soul-mate and such a terrific person.

Oh, and somewhere in amongst the eating, eating and more eating, we went to Alexandros Greek restaurant in Herxheim. It was run by a Greek family, whose four sons all played a part, from cooking, to waitering to being behind the bar and serving terrific espresso coffee (you Greeks are catching up on how to create a good shot of liquid gold, hey!). It was exactly like watching a Greek family in Australia, but here Greek was interspersed with German rather than English. That old adage is so true: “You know where you are born, but not where you will die!” Efcharisto for a delicious meal, and all that ouzo and espresso!

We knew that our time was wrapping up, and on that last morning, whilst Alex kept himself busy with the computer, Michaela and I had some D ‘n’ M (deep and meaningful) conversations about a number of things, as well as watching “The Secret” together, which was both uplifting and inspiring. We truly can do ANYTHING we want to do, but we need to believe in both ourselves and the fact that it is possible! Lots and lots of food for thought.

Finally, it was time for Michaela to drive us to Karlsruhe, from where we would catch the train back to Stuttgart, and then the plane back to Paris. As we hugged goodbye, we both felt a wave of serenity…….”This is not goodbye, it’s merely until we see each other next time”. And we will see each other “next” time! I await you both in Melbourne….with the exact open arms that you greeted me with on my arrival in Germany! Until we meet again Michaela! And we will meet again!

Ombi

Dedication: To my beautiful and special friend Michaela, and yes, you are indeed my soul sister. Thank you for a brilliant, short but impressionable few days in Herxheim. It was above and beyond a pleasure to connect with you again, and meet your gorgeous husband Mathias, as well as your parents Dirk and Rosemarie. I felt like I had known all of them my entire life. Thank you for believing that reconnecting was possible and part of our destiny. Know that you occupy a very special place in my heart, and that neither distance nor time will ever divide us. It’s “The Secret”…….close your eyes……..and I will be there! – Baccioni carissima amica!

Next: Our fleeting but memorable time in Japan.

” I have found that if you love life, life will love you back”. – Arthur Rubinstein (1886 – 1982)

(Photos: 1.- This is what Michaela had to say about me 18 years ago! 2.- Michaela and Ombi, renited. 3.- What gives you the feeling we were so happy to see each other? 4.- Having a snack on the train from Stuttgart to Karlsruhe. 5.- Did I mention what a great cook Michaela was? Ombi, Michaela and Matthias in their apartment in Herxheim. 6.- Life in Speyer, with the cathedral in the background. 7.- Alex having a beer, Speyer. 8.- Outside Cafe Ruelzheim, with Rosemarie, Dirk and Michaela. 9.- Hansel and Gretel, oops Michaela and Ombi, outside a gingerbread house, German wine district. 10.- Ombi and “the boys” at Alexndros Greek Restaurant. L to R: Theo, Ombi, Dimi and Pasqualis, Herxheim. 11.- Ombi and Mathias relaxing on the Rhine, near Speyer. 12.- A “group” photo…..sorry, someone has to take the photo, this time it was Mathias.)

We were arriving to France on the evening of the 1st of August and flying out to Germany on the evening of the 4th. That really was not going to give us much time in the land that made baguettes and camembert cheese famous , but we were about to give it our best shot. It’s the only way we know how!

We were so relieved to see Eva there waiting for us. It had been hard yakka, the last 24 hours! Eva is a lady that we met in Mexico a few months earlier. Alex and I were extremely impressed by the fact that she was travelling alone, and doing things that “people of her age” often don’t do. I had looked at Eva, and figured, as well as hoped, that down the line, I would be doing exactly the same thing as she was………still travelling!

Before we knew it, we had bundled all of our luggage into her car, and were on our way to her house. She lives in Chilly-Mazarin, some 17 kilometres south of Paris, and only some 7 kilometres from the train station where we were being picked up from. The scenery was lush and green and undulating. It felt very peaceful and tranquil. The calm after the storm! In no time at all we had arrived at Eva’s apartment, where we were escorted to “our room”. We then had a delicious dinner that Eva had prepared for us, including baguette, a variety of French cheeses, and a spinach pie. Yum! Did I mention the red wine! What a pleasant change from the monotonous and repetitive tagine and couscous dishes we had had in Morocco.

With only two days in Paris, Eva told us that she would take us sightseeing. Luckily for us, although August is hot in Europe, it is also the month that the locals go away on holiday, which means that one can drive around with relative ease, as opposed to this virtually being an impossibility during the other 11 months. So, we spent two fun filled days, packing in both picnic lunches as well as sights! This is my second time here, but Alex’s first, and so we set out to do, amongst other things, the Parisian “must dos”.

On our first day, we headed into the city, and our first stop was a picnic at Park Monceau, a park which seemed rather more English than French, but nonetheless, a serene spot to have our lunch. Also a fine spot to people watch. Next was the area of Montmarte, perhaps mostly well known for the famous church of Sacre Coeur. The entire area was abuzz with WAY too many tourists paying WAY too much for food and drinks in a very “oh to be seen area”. I can never wrap my head around those tacky “I will paint or draw or make your face into a cartoon” numbers that always ONLY seem to take 5 minutes, and are ALWAYS ludicrously costly! Horses for courses! Sacre Coeur is undoubtedly a Parisian landmark, not only due to its magnificent edifice, but also due to its location, on the highest point in the city. The views are superb; a sentiment undeniably shared by the hordes of other visitors there as well.

Now, what would a trip to Paris be without a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs Elysees and the ultimate French global icon, the Eiffel Tour? The tower is 324 metres tall and weighs 10 100 tons. Impressive stats, I thought! They are all must dos anyway, and so we did them all! And what a pleasure it was to have a car, as we were able to do them all…cruising! We did stop near the Eiffel Tower, however, and walk around it. Despite all its publicity, and the fact that it has been done to death, it truly is quite a spectacular structure. And to think that when it was first built in 1887, the French thought that it was ugly and an eye-sore! Oh, how things have changed! Say France or French, and the words “Eiffel Tower” will undoubtedly be the next two to tipple off your tongue! We saw Notre Dame too, albeit in the distance. That counts, doesn’t it? Finally, we visited the Les Invalides, which is a complex of buildings and gardens pertaining to France’s military history. It also houses the tomb of Napoleon. This was another pleasant place to stroll through.

After all of this, we were rather tired, and so decided to go back home. Back in Eva’s comfortable apartment, in a serene area, we relaxed, ate, chatted, and used “Internet Eva”.

Day 2 was another fun filled, if not full-on day. After a bit of a sleep in and a blithe breakfast we were off again. Eva had graciously packed us another picnic lunch. Today, we actually went past lots of places, many of which I cannot recall, but I do remember thinking how exclusively French so many of the buildings looked. We went past the Railway Houses, which housed the city’s railway workers in times bygone, as well as visiting the city’s Botanical Gardens, complete with wallabies……for visiting Aussies, no doubt! Here, we strolled around and had a picnic lunch. It was then onto Place de la Bastille, where the French Revolution supposedly took place. We then took a pleasant walk along the Canal St Martin. The last stop on day 2, was the Place des Vosges, with its flamboyant Gothic architecture. The square, surrounded by 36 symmetrical townhouses, was built some 400 years ago. It’s in a rather trendy part of town, and quite pleasant to stroll around, and again, people watch. Paris offers so much in the way of culture, design and history. To say that we did it all in 2 days would be ludicrous, but I think we managed to get a reasonable overview. The insights afforded to those who spend more time in a place, however, were this time not available to us….precisely due to the very fact, that we simply did not have the time!

We finished up our day with a great Indian (or was it Pakistani, Eva?) meal, in a place that was good value and had great tasting food, in humble surroundings. Just the way we like it! By this time, it was almost 8.00pm, and Eva dropped us off at the closest train station, from where we took a train to a hotel we had booked very close to Charles de Gaulle Airport. All we needed was a place to crash for the night, as we had to get up early to fly to Stuttgart, Germany, the next morning.

We arrived at Premier Classe Roissy at around 10.00pm. We checked in, showered and went to bed. Small, clean and extremely cheap by Parisian standards (29 euros), it was really all we needed. If you need a place to stay near Charles de Gaulle Airport, we highly recommend it.

After 2 days of “been there, done that” we fell asleep, totally exhausted!

Ombi

NOTE: Alex and I would like to sincerely thank you Eva, for all that you did for us during our brief stay in Paris. We would never have been able to see all that had we tried to do it ourselves. So, thank you, thank you, thank you! We hope we can repay the favour when you come back to visit us in Australia!………Eva actually knows Australia well, having worked there as a nurse….was it in the 6o’s, Eva? She has also revisited Australia on a number of other occasions. Come again, you will always be welcome!

Next: Our brief flirtation with yet another country continues. This time, Germany!

“People always call it luck when you’ve acted more sensibly than they have. ” – Anne Tyler (1941 – ).

(Photos: 1.- Ombi and Eva outside Place des Voges. 2.- The infamous Parisian metro. 3.- Montmatre, with Sacre Coeur in the distance. 4.- The Eiffel Tower, and the throngs who come to visit it. 5.- Reminiscent of years bygone – the area near Place de Vosges. 6.- Again, Place de Vosges – definitely one of Paris’s most romantic spots. It’s exactly what you would expect Paris to be, and exactly as you imagine that it once was!)

We have now definitely got the pedal to the metal! With only weeks left on our ticket, we are now practising the art of ” getting it together” as quickly, efficiently and smoothly as we can. And I must say, we are doing a pretty good job.

As our next flight is from Casablanca (in Morocco) to Madrid, the idea is to do a little of the Spanish coast, before catching a ferry to Morocco from around southern Spain. We figured we could spare a week in Spain! Our flight across was fluid, and we caught a bus to La Rambla, which is Barcelona’s main drag. It was around 10.00pm and it was pumping! There were bodies, street entertainers and vendors everywhere. I wondered where the party was…..there is NO party, we were told….this is La Rambla 24/7, all year around! Looking for a place was…a little tricky….not only was it expensive, but almost everything was booked. So, we did the old traipsing door to door, and checked a few rooms. Some were frighteningly dirty, or as Alex would say, not up to Ombi’s standards. My standards are actually not that high, but they do include shower drains which are not furry, clean sheets, and air that smells, well…of air, and not stale smoke!

Persistency pays off, almost every time, and we did find a room in a hotel, although it was close to midnight. Bargain of the year it was not, yet neither was it outlandishly expensive. It had air-con and included a buffet breakfast. And….it was close to the action. After checking in, we had a quick shower, settled into our very comfortable bed, and promptly visited la-la land.

We spent the next few days exploring Barcelona, and there truly is so much to explore. This is also a place that I had visited some 12 years ago, but like many other places, it too had changed dramatically. With the advent of the euro, I found it to be much, much more expensive than I remembered. Also, Spain now to me feels much less rustic and Mediterranean-like and much more European chic. I know times and people change, but I think I liked it better before.

Bar-thelona, as it is pronounced in Spain (c’s and z’s are pronounced with a lisp in Spain), is the capital of a region called Catalunya, which also has its own regional language called Catalan. Whilst the Catalunyans are fiercely patriotic, they do also speak Spanish. There is no doubt that whilst huge, Barcelona is full of treasures, some found easily and others hidden. Although now so very cosmopolitan, with streets that would easily rival Milan’s designer avenues, it is also full of Gothic, Romanesque and modernist splashes…….welcome to this vibrant city.

No trip to Barcelona would be complete without taking a look at the works of Gaudi, a famous architect who was known for his unique style and highly individualistic designs. The most famous of all these works, is the imposing church of the Sagrada Familia. Despite the fact that Gaudi died in 1926, works are still in progress….. it could therefore be said that it is a living work of art. The views of Barcelona from the towers are unforgettable. Gaudi also left his mark in the way of a number of other exotic and eccentric buildings, such as Casa Battlo and La Pedrera, not to mention Parc Guell, a playground filled with colourful mosaics and more of those outlandish Gaudi designs( by the way, contrary to what you may have heard, the English word gaudy, does not come from Gaudi).

We do not do this often, but another day we took a “tourist” bus all over the enormous town, and I must say that due to its enormity, we were able to see much more than we would have been able to alone. This included the Barcelona Soccer Club Stadium, Poble Espanyol (let’s say the Barcelona version of Ballarat’s Sovereign Hill), the Olympic Stadium, Port Vell (Barcelona’s port area) and the Gothic part of the city (with its winding, narrow, and sometimes dead end streets, which looked as if they had been lifted directly out of medieval Europe).

Another thing we do not normally do, but did in this buzzing city, was treat ourselves to a buffet dinner and flamenco concert. The dinner was average, but the concert was phenomenal. The most intoxicating part was watching the speed at which the dancers’ feet moved……I wish!

After umm-ing and aah-ing we decided that we would go to Granada next, to see the renowned Alhambra, one of the greatest achievements of Islamic art and architecture. We ended up getting a bus, as all the trains were fully booked out. Or should I say, we had to book in advance. Advance….are you kidding, we do not know what we are doing from one day to the next. We are the king and queen of wingin’ it! July in Spain is a nightmare, it is hot and busy, and full of travellers. If I had a month’s holiday, I would NEVER choose to do it in summer. As they say, horses for courses!

Beautiful Granada….nestled at the foot of the snow-clad Nevada Mountains, on the Mediterranean Coast, close to the Strait of Gibraltar, it seems like a world away from the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. Here things are more tranquil, as you walk around in a place that has a distinctive bygone era feel about it. Granada is unique as it was once a haven for Muslims, after the fall of Cordoba. The result is a place that has a distinctively Islamic or Arabic feel about it. The serenity felt so normal, and I wondered at what point the two cultures began to compete instead of living together side by side.

The Alhambra is simply stunning. Sitting on a hilly promontory, about a 20 minute walk or so from the city centre, it was once the residence of the Muslim Kings of Granada.The Alcazaba, the Alhambra’s fortress, dates from the 11th and 13th centuries, and the state of preservation is excellent. It is a place full of palaces, patios, gardens and even a museum, but the piece de resistance is without a doubt the Palacio Nazaries ( Nasrid Palace). Its splendour may be attributed to its patios with outstanding mosaic work as well as the intricacy of its stuccoes and woodwork. This is the type of place you could do in an hour, or 5 or 6. We opted for the latter…scrutinising the mosaics, marvelling at the woodwork, and relaxing in the gardens. With the temperature hovering at above 40 degrees celsius, relaxing in the shade of the trees in the many gardens was virtually compulsory.

I must also add that we had some fairly decent food in Granada, including some ice-cream that rivals Italy’s. OK Italy, you are still the King of Gelati, but some of your neighbours are catching up!

Ombi

(Photos: 1.- Street artist, on a dunny break, La Rambla, Barcelona. 2.- Market fare, of La Rambla. 3.- In the winding alleys of central Barcelona. 4.- La Sagrada Familia…still under construction. 5.- The chimeneas on top of Gaudi´s Casa Batllo. 6&7.- Flamenco show. 8.- The Alhambra, as seen from one of its many gardens, Granada. 9.- An example of the Alhambra´s fine workmanship. 10.- Clothes dryer….on the bus to Algeciras. 11.- Which one´s Ombi? Still having fun after 11 months on the road.)

Can you imagine my surprise when about a year and a half ago, when Alex and I still had the jewellery business, I received an e-mail from an Italian guy I met years ago? I met Fabio for the first time some 14 years ago, whilst on a ferry going from Italy to the Greek Islands! Out of nowhere I receive an e-mail asking if it was really me! To cut a long story short, Fabio googled my name, and up I came! Remember that we had a business web site, so my name came up immediately. Come on, how many Ombretta Zanettis are there in Australia? Needless to say, I promptly e-mailed back, and before we knew it, we had set up “skype date” (I repeat, computer technology…..where would we be without it?) We were soon chatting away like no time had passed, and I promised that I would swing through Italy, as you do, when we passed through on our upcoming world trip.

So, some 17 months later and 11 months into our trip, I contacted Fabio to say that we were coming. Although both originally from Napoli, Fabio and Federica now live in Perugia. We only spent a night in Perugia, but spent a truly wonderful day with Fabio and his family, which included his sister Rosalba, brother-in-law and nephew, as well as Federica’s mum, Bianca. Fabio and his brother-in-law Andrea came to pick us up at the train station, and gave us a whirlwind tour of Perugia, before going back to his house. Besides catching up on 12 years worth of news (I saw Fabio again 2 years after I met him), we also…….surprise, surprise, ate copious amounts of food! Only eat once a day in Italy….that’s all day!! Sauteed eggplant, mozzarella, salami, prosciutto, olives, bread, pasta alla bechemel, pizza (from Federica’s dad’s pizzeria in Naples), wine, mineral water, not to mention the birthday cake, which was one big baba , with swirls of whipped cream on the top! It does not get better than this! How many more times can I say that Italy is a foodies Mecca? You will certainly hear it a few more times before this blog’s out!

It was only a day, but we packed in a lot, both conversationally and food wise. Fabio had organised….you know with the Italian connection thing….for us to stay in the Holiday Inn, at a very reasonable price. I’m not going to lie, it was so tremendous to be able to lie in a bed with an A-1 mattress and a pillow that was neither Mt Kosciusko nor as thin as a piece of rice paper. The buffet breakfast was excellent to say the least, oh and the “complimentary” lunch (aka the continuation of the buffet breakfast) was not too bad either. Our splurge was short lived, as we had to get up early as we were off to Naples.

We went to Naaapuli (as the Neapolitans pronounce it) via train, and on the way met a lovely lady called Michela. Unfortunately, due to time restrictions, we did not take Michela up on her offer to go and visit her, but, we will next time. I promise you Michela!

As they say in Italy, “Vedi Napoli e muore“, or as we would say in English, “See Naples and die”. Naples, you either love it or you hate it! I love it, and can never get enough. It’s crazy, frenetic, dirty, unorganised, exotic, seedy…..bring it on, this is Naples! There simply is not another place on earth like it! And every time I go back, I am reminded of my roots, and of course my mother! As much as I am proudly Australian, Naples always shows me who I really am, and where I come from…..definitely a “figlia di napolitana” (daughter of a Neapolitan). Despite being famous for Sophia Loren and pizza, I am much more inclined to say that Italy’s sfogliatelle should be the show stealers! What, you do not know what sfogliatelle are. Now, THAT is a culinary crime! Did I mention the coffee? Again, bring it on! There I go again, it really IS all about food!

Now the reason I really jammed Naples onto the agenda when time is burning ( I am now constantly hearing my ticket calling out its expiry date!), is that my mum’s first cousin, Giovanni, would be here at the same time. I have visited Giovanni a few time in the USA where he lives with his family, and he has also been to Australia, the most recent being only a year and a half ago. Now, 11 months into an around-the -world trip, we would be in the same country at the same time, when his trip was only a total of two and a half weeks. This was an opportunity that I was going to miss for nothing!

When we arrived we ended up at a place called Hostel of the Sun, very close to the heart of the city. It was run and owned by the very affable and very Neapolitan, Luca, and his excellent staff. From Tiziana, Gemma and Carla, on the front desk, to Taty (originally from the Dominican Republic…which I guessed!) in the kitchen, they were all super friendly and entertaining. I have to say, I just love Neapolitans and southern Italians! I can really see the “me” in “them” and I just love their warmth,vitality and love of life. It is, without a doubt, a southern Italian trait! Despite the chaos and the hardship, they always seem to find a way! As the Neapolitans say, ” ’ca nisciun’ è fesso“, which loosely translates to, “here, nobody’s an idiot”. In the face of adversity, they always seem to find a solution!

I have to confess that it is my favourite place in Italy, and further more, the first time in Europe on this trip that I felt at home. Europe is lovely, too lovely for me in fact, and it is mostly very organised……and then you reach Naples, and you have to cope with a million sights, sounds, smells and situations. I like this hustle and bustle. Safe may have been part of what I enjoyed 18 years ago, but after the likes of Central and South America, I am much more into adventure and culture. Europe for me has become too easy, which also extracts some of the fun. To be perfectly honest, and it is only my opinion, it now sits comfortably in the 3 O’s bracket: over-rated, over-priced and over-populated! There are a lot of places on earth that are far more exciting and that really do give you more bang for your buck! The only bang for your buck in Europe, is the one that almost kills you every time you go and pay for something, which is almost always ludicrously expensive!

You cannot see it all, but we tried to fit in a few of Naples’ sights, including the Amalfi Coast. “Dramatic scenery” is an understatement, and nothing really prepares you for the narrow roads (The Great Ocean Road move over!) that wind precipitously around 50 kilometres of sheer rock face. There are a number of little towns where you can stop off and take a look see, perhaps the most famous two being Amalfi and Positano. Both famous and beautiful they attract hordes of tourists. Despite their beauty, again they were obscenely over priced, but I could have almost coped with that, if it was not for the quadrillion people there……shopping on things they could have bought at home! Hello, we are in Italy, take a bit of a look at the spectacular surrounding scenery! No better buy that leather handbag that I can buy $5.00 cheaper than at home! Why go to Italy, when you can go to China! No sorry, China now comes to you, albeit politically and economically incorrect, as well as at a much cheaper price! I am cheeky, aren’t I!

We visited museums and palaces, strolled through the historical centre, visited the Palazzo Reale, which was the former official residence of the Bourbon and Savoy Kings, but we mostly just strolled, ate lots of sfogliatelle (well, me anyway!) had copious espressos (the best in Italy!), and just soaked it all up!

Drum roll……………………….and then was our day with Giovanni. He had been on the island of Capri (no, we did not get there this time), and we were supposed to meet him at midday, as he arrived by ferry in Naples, but we missed each other. Long story, but we called him on his mobile and met him at the hotel he was staying at close by. As we arrived, he was there to meet us at the front door of the hotel, where a number of hugs and kisses promptly followed. It was so wonderful to be able to see him again, and we both stared at each other in disbelief! We had seen each other in Australia and the USA and now in Italy! It all seemed a bit surreal really! After a couple of hours in the hotel chilling and chatting, we went out for a stroll. We had our own personal guide as Giovanni was raised in Napoli. He took us to Caffe Gambrinus, which is Naples’ oldest and one of its fanciest cafes. It is supposed to be a haunt for artists, intellectuals and musicians. Luckily I do not lack self esteem or confidence, as my shorts, singlet top and hiking shoes were no match for the flashy designer gear which surrounded me. He then showed us the home of the first and original shop which made and sold Naples’ famous Pizza Margarita.

After going “home” to get changed into something a “little more decent” (I dare you to find “decent” in a backpack which has been hauling mostly the same clothes for 11 months!), we went to Giovanni’s sports club in Posilippo, which is where he used to hang out and do sport as a young man, before leaving his beloved Italy. Sports clubs in Italy are a little hard to describe as we do not really have an equivalent in Australia. They are more like a cross between a sporting and a social club…..any excuse to be able to mesh friendship, drinking, coffee and food. I say cheers to that one. Giovanni showed us around the club, which sits right on the spectacular Neapolitan Harbour, and introduced us to many of his old friends. We then sat down to an exquisite, creme de la creme dinner, whom he also invited his close friend Corrado too. Great food, amazing company, mind blowing scenery. Need I say or describe more!

After dinner, Corrado took the four of us in his car, and showed us Naples from above. By this time it was dark, and the lights illuminated the bay in such a way that…..just when you thought it could not possibly get any more spectacular, it could and it did! Ah yes, I had seen Naples and I was almost ready to die, but not quite! We still had Rome to do! Corrado then dropped us off at our hostel, and we both gave Giovannino, as we fondly refer to him, a big hug and lots of kisses goodbye. Not before telling him that I loved him of course! I believe that if you love someone, tell them! Life is short, and people are not mind readers! I told Giovanni that we would see each other again, and I meant it! We looked at each other with that look which is hard to describe but which comes from a soul level, and we both felt it.

Next morning we were off to Rome, but not before one last sfogliatella and a couple of good espressos. I am starting to sound like all we did in Italy was eat, which wouldn’t be too far off the bat really. I am also sounding like I am obsessed with food…again, in Italy, that would not be too far off the bat either!

Rome…..get in at 4.00pm, already had hotel booked, hotel had a leaky plumbing system, moved to another but better and cheaper room in an apartment close by, visited Colosseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, St Peters Basilica, Vatican City, Piazza Navona, throwing coins in the Trevi Fountain (one was for the soul of our dearly loved and now parted friend, Giulia Arcuri, who we knew loved Italy, loved Rome and loved life!), Piazza di Spagna, walk all over the central part of Rome (due to its enormity, it would thus be fair to say that we walked SOME of the central area and not its entirety)….. huff, huff, puff, puff…….catch train from Roma Termini Station to Leonardo da Vinci Airport, check in and…..fly from Rome to Barcelona the next day at 5.30pm! Did you get that? No? We barely did either! Having decided to spend an extra day in Naples, we knew we would not be able to do all that much in Rome. Well at least we thought we wouldn’t, but we sure gave it our best shot. Had not really expected to arrive at the Clayton’s Room either (the room you’ve got when you haven’t got a room!). It did subtract us from an extra hour of playtime, but it was a brilliant self-contained room in a plushy apartment block, which was a welcome surprise. It just meant that we were flat stick for almost 24 hours! Needless to say, we collapsed in the plane and I slept for the entirety of the short trip to Bar-thelona! (That’s how they say it in Spain!)

Rome is big, overwhelming, and has a remarkable history, and 2700 years worth at that. Being in Rome is like tripping over one of your child’s toys. You are constantly “bumping” into or “walking” into things that you had not previously seen or noticed! I love the way in which the new city has simply been built around these enormous toys! Oops, monuments!

St Peter’s Basilica just blew me away, but not necessarily in such a wonderful way. It truly is spectacular, and a work of art, but each time I see it, I am overwhelmed by a multitude of things. One of these things is trying to reconcile how an institution as great and wealthy as this one can have so much, whilst so many have so little! It does not make any sense to me at all! Whilst people are lining up for hours and hours and hours to get into the Vatican Museums close by, and paying a small fortune I might add, there are people all over the world dying of starvation. I just don’t quite get it! I wonder about the priorities of both people and institutions. And I feel saddened, very saddened in fact. It’s a conspiracy……. I always thought that 2 plus 2 equalled 4.

“Philosophy is questions that may never be answered. Religion is answers that may never be questioned.” -Unknown

Dedication: This one is for our beloved friend Giulia Arcuri, who died a little over a year ago. You are always in our hearts and thoughts, but in Rome your light was shining brightly. We love and miss you. And for you too Maria (Brancolino), who was Giulia’s best friend. Your constant and unfloundering devotion and care towards Giulia taught Alex and I what true and unconditional love is all about. May love and light always protect you both.

Ombi

Next: Spain, begining with Bar-thelona.

(Photos: 1.- Perugia, Umbria. 2.- Lunch at Fabio’s. L to R: Alex, Fabio, Andrea, Antonio, Rosalba, Federica and Bianca. 3.- With Fabio and Federica. 4.- Having a sfogliatella in Amalfi. 5.- Munching on a pizza napoletaaaana in Spaccanapoli. 6.- At the Hostel of the Sun, where breakfast is included, nuttela is king! 7.- Positano, Amalfi Coast. 8.- Ombi & Giovannino at the Posilipo Sporting Club. 9.- Ombi, Giovannino & Corrado at the club, with the bay of Naples in the background. 10.- Night view of Naples. 11.- Neapolitan delicacies. 12.- A 21st century Roman gladiator….having a smoke!. 12.- A beggar in Rome.)