Puerto Rico!

As I sat on the plane I thought, “Oh my God, this is really happening, I am really going to the Carribean!” This has been another one of my many travel dream destinations for many years. And now, here I was only hours away from white sandy beaches, turquoise waters and palm trees waving in the breeze….and somewhere in there Alex and I suntanning or frolicking in the water. Besides having seen some spectacular photos over the years, the very thought of the word Carribean conjures up not only such visual images, but a certain atmosphere and attitude, and we were so very ready to experience it.

As we landed in San Juan, the capital, we were immediately overwhelmed by the heat, but more so the humidity. Nothing we couldn´t cope with, however. As we looked around we noticed that we were the only back-packers around…I lie, Alex told me that he saw one leaving. It would not take us long to realise why! Logistics, which I will go on to explain later. But we did see some of those very beaches of my dreams, and although “independent travel” was not easy, we saw some spectacular places and met some phenomenal people.

I can categorically say that I have NEVER traveled in a country where catching public transport, or even obtaining information pertaining to where to catch it, has been so very difficult. Without boring you with particulars, this is what it amounts to: Take into consideration its land mass – Puerto Rico is the most populous country on earth, with some 4 million people, and as I was told, some 2.5 million cars. So, the first obstacle is that most people do not use public transport, as they have a car, or 2, or 3 or….

The other part of the equation is that Puerto Rico is predominantly geared towards package tourists, tourists who who go to resorts and finally the Cruise Ship Set. Excluding the final category, the other two groups either have a car included in their package or hire one. Heaven forgive those of us who want to feel the culture and do it as the locals do…..after many questions, bus changes (including in places we were later told were supremely dangerous!) and long waits, we did finally reach our destination…each time feeling we had made it through another chapter of Mission Impossible!

The highlight of our 10 days in Puerto Rico was without a doubt the island of Culebra, to the east of the ” Big Island”, as it is referred to by the “Boricuas” (Puerto Ricans). Once weaving through the public transport system and arriving at Fajardo, we caught a ferry over to Culebra which took only a little over an hour. The island is quite small, some 7 miles long by 4 miles wide, and as we neared I could see those “cliches” jumping to life before me! Yes, the waters were a cross between turquoise and iridescent green, there were palms swaying on the beach, and of course the sand was a “Cocktail” golden colour.

As usual, Alex was the “Keeper of the Backpacks”, whilst I went in search of a place to sleep…… that was “bueno, bonito y barato” (comfortable, nice and cheap, as they would say in Ecuador). We found an excellent place called “Mamacita´s”, close to the city centre, which was all of only a few blocks in total. The hotel was painted in pastel colours, which really gave it that Carribean feel. Our room had a little balcony and overlooked a little lagoon. Aaaah, just as I had immagined.

People rave about Flamenco Beach, which is deemed one of the Carribean´s best, but we had the good fortune of visiting some other spots on the island that simply blew us away! On our second day on the island, we befriended a guy called Eddie Rivera. Not only did he end up showing us some secluded and breath taking beaches and places on the island, but the three of us forged a truly special friendship. Eddie touched our hearts with his generosity and beautiful soul, and if you read this Eddie, I want you to know that we will never forget you and promise to stay in touch ( Eddie, quiero que sepas que nunca vamos a olvidarnos de ti, y te prometemos de quedarnos en contacto).

Our favourite place was a beach called Zoni, which was actually far more secluded than Flamenco, due to its accessibility…..when we walked onto this beach for the first time, we were simply blown away (for the umpteenth time!)…….every possible Carribean cliche was surfacing before our very eyes…..all that I mentioned before, as well as several other islands and cays, and we could even see St Thomas (US Virgin Islands) in the distance. On several occasions we had the entire beach to ourselves – to swim in the warm waters, sunbake and crack open coconuts to both drink the milk and eat the flesh.

On the 14th of October (Happy Birthday to me!) we went to another island, called Vieques, which is a little south of Culebra. As Alex and I are always looking for a more quiet spot, rather than flocking to where all the tourists are, we decided to make our way across the island to the little town of Esperanza. Unbeknown to us, that very night, in the little hamlet of….Esperanza!….. there would be a big reggae concert happening, and after much asking, and no accommodation within coo-ee, we made our way back across the island to where we had originally landed only an hour earlier! We were almost ready to return to the mainland, but after chatting to an American couple, who told us that they had just come from Esperanza and could give us the details of a great place to stay…..we called, organized our accommodation, and went back to Esperanza!

We stayed at a place called Acacia Apartments, run by a great Puerto Rican/ American couple called Jose and Doug. Immaculately clean with excellent service, I highly recommend this place to anyone who is thinking of visiting. And the guys are just great – friendly, helpful and down to earth! I had a great birthday, and yes we did go to the reggae concert down the road. You will NEVER beleive who we saw there either……Nicholas Cage (yes, THE Nicholas Cage and his lovely wife!)….with photo to prove it!

Our highlight on Vieques, was definitely doing a “Bioluminescent Bay Tour”. This island is home to the most spectacular bioluminescent bay in the world. Look up www.biobay.com for more information. The night trip involves a bumpety-bump bus ride to a place called Mosquito Bay, from which you board a boat and go out into an area which is full of a particular plankton that glows! Of course, it is not actually the plankton that you see glowing, but anything which moves through it! To be scientifically correct, the mysterios blue-green light is created by an organism known as dinoflagellate. Fish flash by in the dark water, and anything that moves lights up. We all got a chance to jump in the water and experience it for ourselves. It was rather freaky to be able to see our limbs moving in the water, but it was surreal and of another dimension to see sparkles running down our arms, as we lifted them out of the water and let the water run down them. I felt like I was somewhere between the world in which I live and whatever lies beyond!

In a nutshell we had some amazing experiences in Puerto Rico, and although we pushed through with the transport thing, I want to make no qualms as to how hard it was. Special thanks to Joe and his lovely wife Raquel, who were on the ferry back to the mainland with us (of course the ferry broke down…yet another story…and of course we had to be on that ferry!), and who drove us back to San Juan in their car! Now, there was an easy travel experience indeed. Puerto Rico is NOT a backpackers haven and nor is it cheap. We found it to be around 10% more expensive than the USA. Still, we had a great time!

Next destination: the Dominican Republic!

The night before we left Chicago, which as you can see has proved to be a major place of “excitement¨ for us, a group of us went out for Alex´s Aunty Mariana´s birthday. Francisco´s (her husband´s) brother Freddy and his lovely wife, Sharon own a great Mexican Restaurant.

It was our first time meeting Freddy, Sharon and their son Nicky, but all the others whom had been invited were pretty much the same crew that had been invited to the BBQ at Greg and Lorena´s (Alex´s secound cousin) the week prior.

The food was great (thanks for making me up a vegetarian version Freddy), the birtday cake yummy ( we all know how much of an aversion I have to sweets…NOT!!!!), and the company and dancing lots of fun.

Mariana´s speech was touching, and she included saying that she felt blessed that Alex and I could share this special occassion with her.

I would like to say this to you my Tia Mariana:

Thank you for making me feel so much a part of your family, and for treating me with so much love. You made me feel so at home and accepted, and please know that you hold a very special place in my heart.

Para ti Tia Mariana,en espanol:

Gracias por haber me hecho sentir tanto como parte de tu familia, y por tratarme con tanto amor. Me hiziste sentir como en mi casa y tan aceptada. Quiero que sepas que tienes un hogar especial en mi corazon.

We got to bed super late, as Alex and I had to pack as we were leaving for Puerto Rico the very next morning (October 7th)……the alarm did not go off, and we woke up late. Too many stories and not enough time to tell them all, but the condensed version is (As Alex is always telling me, ¨You CANNOT tell a condensed version Ombi!);we got up, almost passed out when we saw the time, and in an almost super human way, organised ourselves in 15 minutes……OK I did not wash my hair(the Queen of Clean!!!!), but I did manage to have a shower.

Mariana and Francisco drove us to the airport, which was fairly close by. We made it! Puerto Rico, here we come!

Well, on the day of our (or I should say my!) accident, we were on our way to see my very dear friend Lisken Sherman, whom I met some 17 yeras earlier. Not to be deterred, we ended up going out to De Kalb the next day. Alex´s cousin Nathaly kindly drove us, and needless to say,I did not offer to drive. Funny about that!

Now, did I here you ask where De Kalb is? De Kalb is a little over an hour west of Chicago, and although it is not a major city, and is set amongst farmland and sweeping corn fields, it IS the place where barbed wire was created. A nice little piece of trivia I thought. Go on, impress your friends and/ or sound intelligent by asking people if they know where barbed wire originated. It´s a great party line!

We only spent a couple of days with Lisken, and on the night we arrived we had dinner with Lisken, and Tex and Barb Sherman, at their place. First of all Tex, we were highly impressed with the Middle Eastern meal you cooked up for us. The tabouli rivalled some of the best I have tried in Australia, and we have a huge Lebanese community, so take that as a major compliment!

Tex and Barb actually lived in Australia over 50 years ago for a year, and have been back several times since, on some occasions with Lisken and her brother. Over the years that I have known her,Lisken has often talked to me about Elaine and Ken Jalland, and always spoken so very highly of them and their three “children”. I was asking Lisken about the “kids” once again, and she suggested that I chat to her parents. As many of you would know, although I struggle to add 2 plus 2 or remember a phone number, my expertise lies in remembering faces and names. Tex and Barb mentioned Mark and Guy, the Jalland boys, but nothing rang a bell. Then there was Lynne, who was now a Ceprow as she was married. Now, I was SURE that I knew that name….I excitedly asked a few questions, and within minutes I knew that we were talking about the same person.

Lynne had been one of our (Inti´s) client´s in Melbourne, and one of our favourites to boot! I jumped onto the internet, and looked up Blue Iris Accessories, Lynne´s gorgeous shop in Melbourne, and within minutes we gave her a call. Lynne sounded so surprised to hear my voice, I mean why would one of her ex-suppliers call her. She welcomed me back, and I promptly told her that we were still overseas. I asked her to guess where….and eventually told her that we were in De Kalb, Illinois. She immediately blurted out something to the tune of, “Are you with the Shermans?” With this we all had a chat to Lynne. I am not sure which one of us was more blown away, but what a truly incredible coincidence….but as I do not beleive in coincidences,I will have to say that it was truly incredible synchronicity. And Lynne, we promise to take you up on your offer, and come and have a meal with all of your family on our return, and as you so aptly put it,complete the circle!

You may recall that Tom and Camille kindly drove us to Chicago. Actually they drove us straight to my friend Anne Palmieri’s (nee Frazier) house, which is right in Chicago. Anne and I also worked on summer camp together back in ’89. The last time we caught up was when she visited Australia in 1997. She is now married to Scott, and they have a one and a half year old called Maggie. We spent a relaxing afternoon with Anne and Maggie, just catching up and reminiscing. When Scott came home later in the day, we all went out to a tapas bar called “Casa Iberica” in the city centre. Very impressive! Great atmosphere, and excellent food. From what I recall of Spain, way back in the early 90’s, the food tasted pretty authentic.

Back at Anne’s place we were later picked up by Alex’s Auntie Mariana (his dad’s sister) and her husband, Francisco. What a reception…Mariana flew up to Alex and gave him a big hug. Alex had not seen his auntie and uncle in 7 years, which is when they moved from Ecuador to Chicago. I arrived in Ecuador just after they left, so this was my first time meeting them.
As we drove outto their place, there was a lot of chatting and catching up. I feel like I have known Mariana all my life. Alex’s mum told me that we would get along like a house on fire, and we did, it was instantaneous!

We met Nathaly, Alex’s cousin, and her two children Andres (2) and Emily(1). We would meet her husband, Jesus, the next day. The next day we would also meet Nathaly’s sister, Michell, and her husband, Julio. That same night I also met Franklin, for the first time, another one of Alex’s uncles who has lived here for 6 years, his wife Fanny and children David and Gustavo. It was great to be able to see Alex connect with his family, and in my case, be able to meet them for the first time.

The next morning, Alex and I went for a walk. I am still running and walking to keep fit, and Alex sometimes joins me. We had not been back for 2 minutes, when Nathaly came out of the house telling us that Emily had fallen out of her high chair and hit her head. Within minutes, we were all in the car, driving to the closest hospital’s emergency facility. It all ended up working out well, but as you know, these things take time. Little Emily had to have an MRI/ cat scan, but it showed that all was well. You have to see the funny side – two foreigners in sweaty shorts and tops, hanging around a hospital.

It could get worse…and it appears that it did! One day inside a hospital…and another inside a police station; and I was driven there in a police car! We were on our way to visit Lisken, another friend from the USA that I have known for 17 years (more about that later). Alex’s auntie had lent us her car, and we had only just left the house. After picking up a shot of caffeine (USA size…and that’s BIG!!!) at “Dunkin’ Donuts” (don’t you love the names here!), we were about to leave the car park, when I edged out a bit too far, and was hit by an on-coming car! You HAD to be joking! Not to me! This was not supposed to happen, and especially whilst I was borrowing Alex’s auntie’s car.

Without going into too much detail, the other party called the police, as they do here when an accident takes place, and they were at the scene within minutes. When I showed Officer Bobby Smith my licence, he looked at it a little puzzled. Where was my International Driver’s License? Back at Mariana’s house of course! Officer Smith wasn’t even sure if my licence was legal, although I knew it was as I had checked previously. He had to do his job however, and I went back to the police station to fill in a report whilst Alex and his uncle went home to try and find my International Driver’s Licence, as well as try and print some information pertaining to an Australian licence being legal in the USA.

Officer Smith was exceptionally kind to me, and he must have seen my jaw drop, when he mentioneed that had I been a local, or living here, I would have had to have gone to court over this! Not to mention pay a fine! I was not even game to ask how much! Once I had filled in the paperwork, I was free to go, and Alex and Francisco picked me up….but not before Alex asked Officer Smith, “Can I please have a photo of my wife and you standing next to your car. We have to put this on our blog!” Yes, Officer Smith obliged, and you are able to see the photo!

Alex and I have had enough of big cities, and roof top views, so we have not really gone into the city centre. Chicago has really been about relaxing with family and friends, but somehow, some type of adventure never seems too far away!

Next blog entry: our time with Lisken, and Mariana’s birthday!

Ombi

(Images: 1. Annie Scott, Maggie. Ombi & Alex. 2. Alex, Ombi, Natali, Mariana. Kids Amily & Andres at Navy Pier Chicago. 3. Family and Friends BBQ. 4. Natali. 5. Franklin, Fanny, David, Gustavo & Alex. 6.Car after the “Dunkin’ Donuts” coffe 7. Ombi & Officer Smith. 8. Lake Michigan.)

Well, well, well, hasn’t Toronto grown up since I was last here sometime in the early 90’s? The only thing that appeared somewhat familiar was the CN Tower. With it being both Canada and the world’d tallest building, it’s the kind of land mark that you cannot help but recognise. It looks somewhat like the Telstra Tower in Canberra, or as my friend Bec (from Canberra!) fondly calls it, “the Hypodermic Needle”. Yes, it does look a little like a big needle jutting out into the skyline.

As most of you would know, the USA/ Canada part of our journey has mainly been catching up with friends and family, many whom I have not seen for years. But yes, we did manage to go to the top of the CN tour, where needless to say we were afforded panoramic views of Toronto. www.cntower.ca Alex is the photography aficionado, so views from tall buildings are always good. And I must say, despite the fact that I often joke about how he always seems to be taking photos, it always seems to pay off as there are some exceptional ones amongst them. I have taken some too, as we have a camera each, but I think Alex is over me chortling, “Aleeeeeeeeeex, flash or no flash? Scenery? Macro? Red eye reduction?”, which usually precedes a fairly large portion of my attempting to take a photo.

I definitely need to find the time to read the camera manual…….after the several other books I currently have on the go. At the moment, they are: “The Lost Realms” (The long-hidden secrets of the lost civilisations of the pre-Columbian Americas), “The Heart of the Buddha’s Path” (by the Dalai Lama), “Travel Writing” and Lonely Planet’s “USA and Canada on a Shoestring”. Nothing like a good mix, is what I say.

Again, some of you may recall my very special friend, Annie Cervantes, whom I met whilst living in Ecuador in 1999. She was one of my best friends in Ecuador, and moved to Toronto just under two years ago. She is very dear to me, and has remained someone very special and close to my heart. Although two years had passed since I had last seen her in Ecuador, it only took a soul-felt hug and a few seconds to realise that nothing had changed, and we were able to pick up where we had left off. It was great to also be able to meet her new partner, Dale.

We shared a wonderful six days together: laughing, crying, reminiscing, hugging. We were also honoured to be able to share a very poignant moment in Annie’s life – We went to Canadian Immigration with her, and she was finally granted Canadian permanent residency. As Alex too went through this a couple of years ago, we both know what such a day signifies. Many doors close, but many more open! One never forgets that South American passion of their mother country, but those feelings are always mixed with the knowledge of the opportunities that a first world offers. This is when I close my eyes and envisage utopia…..no first or third world, no difference between black and white, straight and gay, no poor and rich, equal opportunity in all places and for all people, and above all peace, love, freedom, shelter and food for all.

All good things must come to an end, and as Alex and I jumped on the bus outside Annie’s apartment, we hugged goodbye before boarding, and I cried all the way to the Greyhound bus station. I must say, I felt so very truly sad. I have some spectacular friends, but they live all over the world, and so goodbyes are part and parcel of seeing them. The amazing friendships I have formed and the love and joy they bring me, however, by far outweighs the sadness.

Annie, thanks for your unconditional love and support, and for always standing by me. Please know that I will always be here for you too. Each goodbye is not the end at all, but simply a beginning!

Our bus was not leaving until 1.00am, and we had also organised to meet my friend Mari Alvarez at 10.00pm (at the Greyhound station). Mari is a Canadian woman I met whilst working in Japan as an English teacher in 1997/98. We actually shared the sameapartment when I lived in Tokyo. Mari, you are as beautiful as I remember you, and although it was brief, I am so glad that we were able to connect again. Thanks for making the time to come out and see us, when I felt that we were almost on the verge of not being able to after such a long time!

Paolo Cristante and Renee Knarr-Peev are two other friends from the Toronto area that I met on one of my several sojourns around the world. Paolo I met in 1999 in Patagonia, Argentina and Renee in 1994 (I think! Help me here Renee!) They are both married now with 2 and 3 children respectively. Unfortunately, we were not able to catch up on this trip, but we did manage to connect via e-mail. Next time……and with the way I travel , I expect that there will always be a next time!

Ombi

(Images: 1. Ombi, Annie & Alex city center Toronto 2.CN Tower 553.3mts (1,815 feet, 5 inches) 3. View Fron top CN Tower SkyPod 4.Ombi & Anie. 5. Mari & Ombi)

You may recall that in a recent entry (From New York to Philly) I mentioned my friend Erin, her jewellery making and her involvement in educating young Maasai women from Kenya. As most of you would know, I do not normally pass on letters or frivolous information, but what I am about to write and talk to you about, is a topic very close to my heart – Education, and empowering people. I have already become involved, and I hope you will too. Involvement is not difficult, the easiest being in the form of a donation.

Erin and I sat down, and she printed me out a lot of information as well as thouroughly explaining what it was all about. I can absolutely guarantee that it is genuine and that the money does and will indeed go towards a brilliant cause. Knowledge and education are the building blocks of making the world abetter place for all, as opposed to the current “few”; we can thus appreciate why it’s falling apart, with so many governments conveniently NOT making it their priority. Education is power indeed, and utopia is a world where we are all able to ahve a slice of this “enlightenment”.

In January 2007, Beads For Education will hold their second Annuual Walkathon – a 100 mile walk from Isinya to Ambroseli National Park, in Kenya, Africa. Many African women and girls will do the walk, as well as people such as Erin. BEADS currently sponsors more than 250 girls, including several who have graduated high school, are attending college, and in some cases have even managed to avoid female genital muitilation (also “politely” known as female circumcision). Last year more than USD $36,000.00 was raised and the Walkathon 2007 goal is USD $100,00.00.

In addition to raising money, the Walkathon also:

Draws attention to the issues of women’s status and education, and their rights both locally and nationally.

Promotes pride amongst the sponsored girls and their families.

Enhances self-worth and a sense of accomplishment amongst the wakers.

ALL BEADS sponsored girls who are in 8th grade and high scholl graduates WALK. This is a rare oppotrtunity for the girls to participatein an extraordinary event which is SOLELY about them and their advancement.

I urge each and every one of you to go to the BEADS web site, www.beadsforeducation.org and meet and greet the walkers- Maasai warriors, parents, teachers, sponsors and their girls. I urge each and every one of you to and learn more about this vital program. Knowledge is power, right? And in empowering others we empower ourselves!

To donate, click on the WALKATHON on the web site. The person I ask that you “sponsor” is Erin Gonzalez-Hicks. Donations of USD $15.00 or more will receive a beautiful keychain which has been hand made and beaded by the Maasai mamas.

Finally, yes Alex and I both donated. We beleive in leading by example, and that change begins with each and every one of us.

Ombi

(Images: www.beadsforeducation.org )